Tip & How-To about Ford Escort
Having issues with your blower motor not working or working intermittently? The most likely cause is a burnt electrical connector at the blower motor resistor. Typically the fan won't come on no matter what position you have the switch in. The connector is thin and will melt. This causes the metal part to be loose and either the motor quits working or it only works when it wants to. If you are sitting in the passenger seat with your toes facing up, they are nearly pointing at the blower motor. Next to the blower motor is the resistor. It looks like this:
The single wire (blue with white stripe) is the one that is the problem. That picture was taken after the repair. The connector looks like this:
Notice how the wire is blackend and the white plastic part is melted? This is why the motor doesn't work like it should. We are going to replace this connector with one that isn't melted or burnt and should fit tight enough to hold itself on the resistor. You may find it easier to do all of this work if you remove the blower motor from the dash.
* Female electrical spade terminals for 10-12 gauge wire. I bought mine from Auto Zone, they look like this:
* Wire stripper or sharp knife you can use to cut insulation off.
* Solder and soldering iron. If you don't want to use one, you don't have to. I advise that you do. I used 60/40 rosin core solder.
* Crimping tool.
* Shrink tubing for 10-12 gauge wire. You'll need a ligher or heat gun to shrink the tubing.
* 8mm socket and rachet.
* Wire cutters.
1. Unhook the two connectors from the resistor and remove the three bolts from the blower motor that hold the motor to the bottom of the dash.
There are three of these bolts, 8mm.
As you pull the blower down, pay attention to how the wires are held in by this clip. The clip goes through the blower motor housing and is only there to route the wires out of the way.
2. With the blower out of the dash you have some slack to work with in the wires. Cut the connector off the wire as close to the connector as you can.
3. Slide some heat shrink tubing (about 3" of tubing) over the wire now. This way it won't be difficult later. Slide it as far on the wire as you can so the heat of soldering doesn't shrink the tubing.
4. Now you'll need to remove enough of the insulation to insert into the new connector. You only need to take enough off so that it hits the little stop tab on the connector. It ends up being about 1mm or so. Before putting the connector on, remove the plastic tip if it has one. Mine had a yellow tip, just use some pliers to remove it.
Then crimp the connector down. If you don't have a crimping tool, just use some pliers.
5. Now you need to solder the connection. You will be putting the solder on top where the wire meets the little stop on the connector. Heat the connector up from the back so that the solder flows onto the wire instead of the soldering iron. Only use enough solder to cover the wire. Too much and it'll spill into the connector and it won't go onto the resistor.
Now slide the shrink tubing over and shrink it down. Be careful not to set the wire on fire.
7. Re-install everything and enjoy having heat or a/c again.
Alternatly, if you don't have solder you can just leave the crimp. If you don't have shrink tubing you can use electrical tape. However, this makes the connection a lot less reliable.
Posted by Brad Kirby on
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