Tip & How-To about Chevrolet 1500

General tip for splicing stranded wires.

I see a lot of people saying they cut wires to splice them. There's a better way. Strip about 1-1/2" of insulation off the existing wire and spread the strands into two equal parts,
Insert the end of the new wire through the opening and twist half around one side and half around the other side of the opening.

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Bught my ba xr6 2002 the other week . Was wondering why my radio wasnt making any sound found out the wires were all cut . Any one know how to wire them back to were they go???


try looking for your vehicles wiring diagram on google, or if you can take the speakers out it should be easy to splice the cut wires back together, just strip some insulation from the ends of the wires, twist them so that they're not frayed and then twist the two cut ends together, using black electricians tape to cover and protect them individually. also make sure that you're connecting them correctly. if both of the wires are grey, like the one pictured, one should have a black line going down the side of the insulation twist it to the other end with the same black line and your good. I hope this helped

Mar 24, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Fussable link removal


To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:








  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


  2. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of three circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.


  3. Identify and procure the proper fuse link with butt connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.


  4. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:


    1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.


    2. Strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the two good fuse links, Then insert two wire ends into one end of a butt connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the butt connector and crimp all three firmly together.





Care must be taken when fitting the three fuse links into the butt connector as the internal diameter is a snug fit for three wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutter, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.





    1. After crimping the butt connector to the three fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the butt connector and crimp very firmly.


    2. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a butt connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the butt connector and crimp firmly.


    3. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs then insulate with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.




Heat shrink tubing must be slipped over the wire before crimping and soldering the connection.



  1. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the two wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with two proper size butt connectors. Solder the connectors and wires, then insulate.


  2. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size butt connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair, then insulate.


  3. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.



Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor-don\'t cut or splice\'\'.

When attaching a single No. 16, 17, 18 or 20 gauge fuse link to a heavy gauge wire, always double the stripped wire end of the fuse link before inserting and crimping it into the butt connector for positive wire retention.

May 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

its not turning over, i replaced the starter relay, the starter and put in a new battery. nothing comes on in the cab except the headlights, cab lights, tail lights,horn & the warning sound that comes on wen u open the door. everything else isnt working an example the heater, windshield wiper, panel, electeric lock or window.


Look for a fusible link or fuse link off of the starter or a set of fuses or Maxi fuse that is blown in the fuse box.

Fuse Link The fuse link is a short length of special, Hypalon (high temperature) insulated wire, integral with the engine compartment wiring harness and should not be confused with standard wire. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit which it protects. Under no circumstances should a fuse link replacement repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness. To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:
  1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of the open fuse link. If the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected circuit.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of 3 circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.
  4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link and **** connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.
  5. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:
    1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.
    2. Strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the 2 good fuse links. Then insert 2 wire ends into one end of a **** connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the **** connector and crimp all three firmly together. NOTE: Care must be taken when fitting the 3 fuse links into the **** connector as the internal diameter is a snug it for 3 wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutters, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.
    3. After crimping the **** connector to the 3 fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the **** connector and crimp very firmly.
    4. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a **** connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the **** connector and crimp firmly.
    5. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs and insulate with electrical tape.
  6. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the 2 wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with 2 proper size **** connectors. Solder the connectors and wires and insulate the tape.
  7. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size **** connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair and insulate with tape.
  8. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation. NOTE: Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor: don't cut or splice."
---
Fuses Fig. 1: Remove the cover from the fuse panel 88286p27.jpg
Fig. 2: Use only the fuses specified for the circuit 88286p28.jpg
Fig. 3: Firewall-mounted fuse box, turn signal and hazard flashers 84926100.gif
Fig. 4: Instrument panel-mounted fuse box 84926101.jpg
On earlier models, the fuse panel is located on the firewall above the driver's left foot. On later models, the fuse panel is located on the underside of the instrument panel, covered with an access door. prev.gif next.gif
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Oct 15, 2010 | 1991 Ford F250

1 Answer

I am looking for a diagram with labeling for a ''under the hood'' fuse box on a 1995 F250 7.3 Diesel . I've a electical leak that I've tracked to this fuse box and two specific fuses, but don't know what they feed. Thanks John


Two circuits are protected by circuit breakers located in the fuse panel: the power windows (20 amp) or power windows and Shift-On-The-Fly (30 amp) and the power door locks (30 amp). The breakers are self-resetting.
The fuse link is a short length of special, Hypalon (high temperature) insulated wire, integral with the engine compartment wiring harness and should not be confused with standard wire. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit which it protects. Under no circumstances should a fuse link replacement repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness.
To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:
  1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of the open fuse link. If the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected circuit.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of 3 circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.
  4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link and **** connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.
  5. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:
    1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.
    2. Strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the 2 good fuse links. Then insert 2 wire ends into one end of a **** connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the **** connector and crimp all three firmly together.
      Care must be taken when fitting the 3 fuse links into the **** connector as the internal diameter is a snug it for 3 wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutters, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.
    3. After crimping the **** connector to the 3 fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the **** connector and crimp very firmly.
    4. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a **** connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the **** connector and crimp firmly.
    5. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs and insulate with electrical tape.
  6. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the 2 wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with 2 proper size **** connectors. Solder the connectors and wires and insulate the tape.
  7. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size **** connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair and insulate with tape.
  8. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.
Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor: don't cut or splice



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Mar 06, 2010 | 1995 Ford F250

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