electrical power you meant is seems good.
engine power zero.
this is no crank, ill post again,. for this, done so many times.
i use this thing called a voltmeter and avoid this jiggery pokery below...... time is money.
1: fuses good.battery terms clean? (all fuses, if you lack the FSM to see which ones are IN PLAY.)
2: battery charged to 12.6vdc reseted?
3: jumper cable cranking work now>? off a running donor car?
yes, the battery was dead, or weak, or discharged, test battery, test cars charging system and last make sure no drain on battery parked keys out of car..
4: NO, jump fails.
check or bypass clutch switch?
this cranks ok, (bad clutch switch at its pedal.)
if still dead it can be bad key switch or bad starter relay.
lets see if it has the relay. ,alldata.com says yes.
so does the starter relay close, cranking?
if not fix cause that first.
it needs fuses working
it needs power to the relay contactor input
power to the coil
and the coil enabling factor the clutch depressed and its switch must be closed.
and if the antithieft box, (factory option) is unhappy
the start relay coil will be dead.
start at the relay ,
does the (turned on) dash heater fan cut off, cranked
yes, then relay is closing
no, its not. find reason.
easy with a volt meter the 4 pins on relay.
12v, 12v, 0v and 12v respectively.
if the pin 5 never goes to 0v, the immoblizer is unhappy.
sorry so small, Fixya shinks it to useless....