Tip & How-To about Ford Lincoln Continental

How do I check or replace my air filter

Checking your air filter on a regular basis is key to engine performance. all vehicles have one and it is easy to check and or replace.
A clogged air filter affects your car's performance on a number of levels. It robs your car of power, something you need every ounce of when you're navigating a freeway on-ramp. Perhaps more important is the effect a clogged air filter has on your gas mileage. It takes 10 minutes and usually costs less than $20. These easy steps will get you there and back in no time flat.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: 10 minutes
Here's How:

1. Locate and Open the Filter Housing
With your hood open and safely propped, locate the air filter housing. On any car made in the last 20 years or so, it'll be in a black plastic case with metal clips on the sides. You'll also see a black tube going into the plastic case on most cars. Flip the little metal clips downward. If they are tight, slide a flat-head screwdriver in between the clip and the case from the top, and pop it off. Some housings will also have a nut holding them from the top.
2. Squirrel Your Nuts
If you removed nuts from the top of your filter housing, be sure to put them in a safe secure location. You don't want to lose these! In the vehicle used in our example, the top of the filter housing comes off, so we put them in the housing top where they couldn't roll away. You can even stick them in your pocket. Whatever you do, put them someplace safe.
3. Remove the Old Filter
Your filter (round or rectangular) will be made of lots of folded paper surrounded by rubber. Before you remove the dirty filter, take a moment to note how it sits in the housing so you can be sure to put the new one in correctly. Carefully pull it out, being sure that nothing falls into the bottom of the box. I've seen sticks, trash and some really big bugs caught in the filter. If it looks anything like the filter in the above photo, you know you're doing the right thing.
4. Put the New Filter in Place
Put the new, clean filter in place, being sure to put it in the same configuration as the one you removed (as in which side is up, etc.). Don't worry about making a mistake here, if you have the filter in upside down you won't be able to get the top closed. Also be sure to press the rubber gasket of the filter all the way into its groove in the housing. If you find the cover hard to get back on, re-check this as it's often the culprit.
5. Empowerment!
That's it! You just saved money on gas, and saved a nice bit of cash by installing the air filter yourself.

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1 Answer

The car uphill obvious weakness, engine power performance Descent


This is probably due to not cause prolonged oil changes, oil filter, air filter causing incomplete combustion of fuel, increased engine deposits and other issues.
Recommended oil, oil filters, each with about 5,000 km to be replaced once, air filter and oil filter every 10,000 km driving needs to be replaced, otherwise the air, fuel and oil impurities cause parts wear and clogging the oil, thus affecting the normal operation of the engine.
Use obd2 for automotive diagnostics , you can improve vehicle safety performance and driving more safer.

Dec 11, 2013 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1997 blazer 4.3 has a DTC P0300 only canbe driven after warm up but still misses most of the time it passed E check when not missing one time idle is smooth have replaced all ignition parts The EGR valve is electronic engine starts easy


Hi,
The 300 code is multiple misfires on cylinders. I assume you could have guessed that by the way the engine runs as you described. There are several potential causes for that, but I would start with checking your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Should get at least 60psi for most fuel injection systems. Other causes...clogged injectors, malfunctioning map sensor, air/vaccuum leak(s), bad intake or plenum gasket(s). Check your fuel pressure and try a can of seafoam to clean out your fuel system. Check all your vaccuum/air hoses and make sure your air filter is good and not clogged. (should be replaced yearly anyway, air restriction will cause bad performance and fuel consumption) Intake and plenum test by spraying starting fluid around gasket mating to engine area and see if engine revs up (do it while idling). If you get a rev up, do it a few times. if it does it consistently in any one spot, you have a gasket leak.
Hope that helps, Mike

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I have a 2007 rabbit, 2 door with 22K miles. What, if any, maintenance is required other than the annual oil change?


Well, I'm a bit of a ****** for preventative maintenance, mostly because I'm lazy and just want my equipment to work forever. So, here are some things that will be helpful: Around every 10-15k miles, it is best to change out the fluid in the rear differential. That's also a real good time to change manual transmission fluid. 50k is a good time for automatic transmission fluids. 50k is also a pretty good time to drain out your old coolant, and pour some new coolant in. Probably every 500 miles is a good time to take a look at how much brake fluid you have, and how much power steering fluid you have. Every month, no matter how cold/hot, run your heater for 5 minutes, then your A/C unit for five minutes to keep the seals stable. Every now and again, take a peak under your vehicle's frame, check EVERYWHERE for rust. You don't want rust sneaking up on ya'. Look often, and change every 30K miles or so, your brakes, make sure they are in best possible shape. Also, press on your bumper, and let loose. If you're starting to have stability problems (Maybe at 100K miles or so), it is time to check those shock absorbers. There's plenty of stuff to check, but it's mostly preventative. Might get a Chilton-Hayes style manual for your vehicle.

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engine check light read p0171 and p0420, noticed a leak of engine oil on cylinder 2 area of head gasket when checking the sparks plug, is that the cause?


P0171 code is described as: lean condition bank 1, oxy sensor 1. If your vehicle is a 4 cylinder, which I believe it is.. you have got a lean air/fuel mixture being found by the ecm(computer).This can be caused by several things. The first of which is a possible vacuum leak at or near the intake manifold. This can also be caused by a MAF(Mass Air Flow) sensor problem or even by something as simple as a clogged fuel filter. This lean condition could also be the cause of the P0420 :described as a catalyst efficiency problem. It would be best to have the vehicle taken to a reputable repair facility that is capable of engine performance diagnostics and have them run tests for these codes. The gasket you mention is most likely a valve cover gasket not the head gasket and would not cause these codes. Although you should have this leak fixed before it becomes a problem.

Hope this helps..

Apr 20, 2009 | 2003 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Oil in air filter


If the engine has a PCV valve it may be at fault causing the problem of oil in the air filter. It could also be the cause of the RPM drop.
Good Luck!

May 26, 2008 | 1998 Ford Windstar

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