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Avoid Turbo Problems

P { margin-bottom: 0.25cm; line-height: 120%; } Avoid Turbo Problems
Turbos can damn expensive to fix when they go wrong. One symptom of a faulty turbo is a high pitched whistling when the engine is at revs. This usually can be attributed to defective seals which allow the air to pass through - hence the whistling noise. Replacement of seals is probably the easiest of jobs on a turbo. Anything else - well - you probably need a well stocked wallet. The cost of replacement/repair on an older car can outstrip the value of the car.
There is something you can do to promote the life of your turbo: Change your driving habits.

A turbo runs hot - very hot. As it operates there is, quite naturally, oil being pumped through it. When you switch off the engine there's no oil being pumped through what is still an exceedingly hot turbo. The oil that is still inside the turbo 'cooks'. Think of a saucepan on a stove - turning off the heat without removing the pan allows the contents to overcook. The same is happening inside the turbo on your car.

Over time the oil inside the turbo becomes carbonised causing all sorts of problems within the turbo itself. That's when the big expensive repair bills come in.

A change in driving habits can help. Drive slower on the last few miles of your journey - allow the turbo to shed some of its heat. Or let the engine tick over for a few moments before switching off. Both of these tricks allows the turbo to shed excess heat while cooler oil is pumped through. Yes, it's as easy as that.

Regular - more than regular - oil changes also help. Not just the turbo, but the engine too. Understanding coupled with preventative maintenance pays dividends

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WHY DOES MY 1993 7.3 TURBO SMOKE SO BAD WHEN IT FIRST STARTS


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You did not tell us what color of smoke you see when you start the engine. If its white smoke, you could have some injectors leaking or some of the glow plugs are beginning to go


If its blue smoke you could have problems with the valve seals leaking or even leaking from the turbo. If the turbo seals are leaking leaking into the down pipe, there would be a lot of very oily black sludge built up and if you looked into the turbine there was a lot of oil around the wheel as well. You can check your turbo for end play and even disconnect your down pipe and stick a finger inside to check for oily sludge. Black soot is normal, but it should be bone dry in there.


And of course black smoke can be a combination but most likely dirty air filter and air system.

Mar 07, 2011 | 1993 Ford F350

1 Answer

Subaru Legacy GT CEL code 66


There is a differential pressure sensor mounted beside the 2wd fuse link with a couple of 5mm pressure lines going in each end. These lines connect to each turbo output. The two pressures acting on each side of this sensor produces a voltage read by the ecm which tells it the differential pressure between both turbo boosts during acceleration. Normally the primary turbo leads the boost and the secondary turbo plays catch up until the pressures are even then air valves get opened and shut to bring the second turbo compression in parallel with the first turbo. The two turbos simply act in sequence but function in parallel. Its just like having one big turbo but operating down two smaller paths.
The sensor measures the changing boost pressures as the second turbo rises to equal the first.
If the generated voltage is not what it expects it shows as a code 66. As you can start to see there could be many different reasons why there might be an imbalance in the two pressures.
It could be either turbo causing the imbalance or a faulty bypass valve or pressure relief valve or a number of other issues. It doesnt necessarily have to be a turbo or a solenoid which is faulty. All it means is that the pressure difference between the two boosts is wrong.
The real question is why is it wrong.
There is a lot you can do yourself to diagnose the cause. If you are able to study the manual which is available free off the internet (do a search for the link) then you will see that you can test many of the component parts quite easily at home and also temporarily replumb the turbos to bypass aspects of the system control to figure it out for yourself. To do this you will have to gain an understanding of how the twin turbo system works. However its not hard if youi strip away the complex jargon hiding simple functions.. There is a mystique of fear concerning working on these motors which is not justified.Just use common sense and logic.
Or you take it to a shop and pay someone else to do it for you.

Oct 09, 2009 | 1996 Subaru Legacy

1 Answer

Turbo does'nt work


How do you know the turbocharger doesn't work? Just because the boost gage doesn't show boost PSI doesn't mean the turbo isn't working. Junkyard or rebuilt turbos aren't cheap but they're less expensive than a new one from a dealer. Don't buy a old turbocharged Volvo they're money pits. They always break down and parts are really expensive (and hard to find on older models) and you have to find a mechanic that specializes in fixing Volvo's.

Apr 16, 2009 | 1994 Volvo 850

2 Answers

Audi A4 1.8T 2000 MODEL TURBO PROBLEMS


When the turbo was replaced before, did they change the oil feed and drain lines as well, or just connect the old ones to the new turbo? If they didn't replace them, it's possible one of them is clogged with oil sludge (the 1.8T is famous for sludge). That would be a sure-fire way to kill the turbo.

Stormbrewin is on track with his question too - what was the cause of death of each of the failed turbos?

Oct 18, 2008 | 2000 Audi A4

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