20 Most Recent 1993 Toyota Camry V6 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

For both sides, in the USA, about $700 - $1200, depending on whether you went to a dealer (expensive) or used aftermarket replacements (cheaper)

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Apr 13, 2014

Fuse box is by drivers left knee. Above this are the flashers and about 3 inches above this is the circuit breaker for the windows and door locks. breaker is silver, about 1/2 by 5/8 inch and in the center is the button you need to push in to reset. I used an unbent paper clip to press it. Make sure unit is not energized. May need to unplug breaker first. Press in center button until it clicks.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Apr 06, 2014

Hi Lil Cutey, The proof that you have a leakage is the fact that you need to add coolant every day. The leakage is somewhere else in the cooling system other than the radiator. Look at the places where the radiator pipes join to the engine to see if there are any signs of leakage. There will be a powdery deposit a similar color to the coolant. If you locate the leakage you may be able to get new hose clips and attend the problem. If the leakage is not evident from there, you will need to look more deeply. Inspect the front of the engine, where the serpentine belt is fitted and look for the same marks around the water pump. If its the water pump which is leaking it will mean fairly major work. If you want to tackle it let me know and we can go through it together. but it is not simple! Now we come to the worst part. If there are no signs of leakage from the water pump, start the engine and leave it idling until it gets to operating temperature and then let it continue until you can see which part of the engine where the steam is most dense. If its from the back of the engine (the part closest to the passenger compartment, then your car may have a major problem with that cylinder head. To work on that needs a certain expertise and special tools and equipment. The cylinder head will also need to be taken to a machining company for skimming. Let me know what you would like to do.Regards John

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Apr 06, 2014

Depending on the amount of miles on your vehicle it may be time to service the timing belt. Personally if it was me and I had to replace the water pump I would probable replace the timing belt at the same time since the cost is minimal. You can always check it for wear and cracks when you take it apart.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Apr 03, 2014

Vacuum leaks, or leaks after the MAF sensor. Exhaust leaks, intake leaks. Wiring for MAF and O2

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Apr 01, 2014

You need to remove the front part of the oil pump and reseal it with an oil pump reseal kit from the parts store. Do yourself a favor and put in a new oil pump shaft seal as well. While you are at it change the front crank and the front cam seals, as they are all made from the same type of rubber.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 30, 2014

Have you changed the thermostat?

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 28, 2014

For this to happens in a globe of any sort the voltage has to be varying up and down. So something is causing that in the wiring. Either the voltage regulator in your generator is at fault, or there is a bad ground connection which is making and breaking contact, possibly at either end of the battery ground strap.

You can check all the ground strap connections by wiggling them and tightening the bolts. You need instruments to check the voltage regulator, so you may have to visit an auto electrician.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 18, 2014

This is mainly a matter of having the timing marks lined up along the timing belt at top dead center, and then checking that the spark advance is working OK . See here p30 and 44


1993 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 14, 2014

do a pressure check on the cooling system It sounds like your heater core is failing

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 13, 2014

Pour in a tablespoon or 2 of engine oil thru the plug hole. If the reading improves, the piston rings are broken.

If not, suspect a burned valve (but this is pretty uncommon in your engine) or a blown head gasket on that bank. Either way the head has to come off.

If you are going to do that yourself, post back as I have extensive info.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 12, 2014

It all sounds like you have a bad computor. If you are not getting fire from the coil. The source will lead you back to the brain source, (The Computor). Go to the local junk yard to get another one at half price.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 11, 2014

u can go to a air con re-full company near u,they can check if u need to re-gas.u must also check your fuse.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 02, 2014

Ah yes then. See here p39 on


If you find the engine is a little different to this, it is probably the older 3VZ with a cast iron block. In that case I need to email you a file.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Feb 28, 2014

You mean the timing belt tensioner? The timing belt has to be removed, with all that entails. I can supply further detail if this is the one you mean.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Feb 28, 2014

in the factory service manual FSM.


login to


and read all the steps

3VZ-FE (and 2vz)
this is your engine. and has many steps

key is timing and proper belt tension and is free running engine.


Prior to timing belt removal, make sure all the match-marks are there-2VZ-FE and 3VZ-FE engines

less photos:

the crank mark is CR -line

the cam pulleys, 3v pulley to R-cam mark

and 3v pulley to L-cam mark. (photos are best).

  1. Remove the timing belt.

If the timing belt is to be reused, draw a directional arrow on the timing belt in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) and place matchmarks on the timing belt and crankshaft gear to match the drilled mark on the pulley.

  1. With a 10mm hex wrench, remove the setbolt, plate washer and the No. 1 idler pulley.

  2. Remove the crankshaft timing pulley, if it can NOT be removed by hand, use two flat bladed tools. Position shop rags on the components to prevent damage.


  1. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Slide the timing pulley on so that the flange side faces inward.

  2. Apply bolt adhesive to the first few threads of the No. 1 idler pulley setbolt, install the plate washer and pulley and then tighten the bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).

  3. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, No. 1 idler and water pump pulleys.

If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.

  1. Install the lower (No. 1) timing cover and tighten the bolts.

  2. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the key groove on the pulley and slide the pulley on. Tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm).

  3. Install the No. 2 idler pulley and tighten the bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm). Check that the pulley moves smoothly.

  4. Slide the left pulley, facing the flange side outward. Align the knock pin hole of the camshaft with the knock pin of the timing pulley, then install the knock pin. Tighten the left camshaft timing pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).

  5. Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC again. Turn the right camshaft until the knock pin hole is aligned with the timing mark on the No. 3 belt cover. Turn the left pulley until the marks on the pulley are aligned with the mark on the No. 3 timing cover.

  6. Check that the mark on the belt matches with the edge of the lower cover. If not, shift it on the crank pulley until it does. Turn the left pulley clockwise a bit and align the mark on the timing belt with the timing mark on the pulley. Slide the belt over the left pulley. Now move the pulley until the marks on it align with the one on the No. 3 cover. There should be tension on the belt between the crankshaft pulley and the left camshaft pulley.

  7. Align the installation mark on the timing belt with the mark on the right side camshaft pulley. Hang the belt over the pulley with the flange facing inward. Align the timing marks on the right pulley with the one on the No. 3 cover and slide the pulley onto the end of the camshaft. Move the pulley until the camshaft knock pin hole is aligned with the groove in the pulley and then install the knock pin. Tighten the bolt to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).

  8. Position a plate washer between the timing belt tensioner and the a block and then press in the pushrod until the holes are aligned between it and the housing. Slide a 1.27mm (3VZ-FE 1.5mm) Allen wrench through the hole to keep the push rod set. Install the dust boot and then install the tensioner. Tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). Don\'t forget to pull out the Allen wrench!

  9. Turn the crankshaft clockwise two complete revolutions and check that all marks are still in alignment. If they aren\'t, remove the timing belt and start over again.

  10. Install the right engine mount bracket and tighten it to 30 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).

  11. Position a new gasket and then install the upper (No. 2) timing cover. refer to the illustration for bolt positioning.

  12. Install the spark plugs.

  13. On the 2VZ-FE, install the right engine mount insulator. Tighten the bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm), the bracket nut to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and the body nut to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm). Install the No. 1 stay and tighten it to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm). Install the No. 2 stay and tighten the bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (66 Nm) and the nut to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm).

  14. On the 3VZ-FE, install the control rod and tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). Install the right stay and tighten it to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).

  15. Install and adjust the drive belts.

  16. Install the fender apron seal and the wheel.

  17. On the 3VZ-FE, install the No. 2 stay and tighten the bolt to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm), the nut to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm). Install the No. 3 stay and tighten it to 54 ft. lbs. (73 Nm).

  18. Install the coolant overflow tank and the washer tank.

  19. Install the power steering reservoir tank and the cruise control actuator.

  20. Connect the battery cable, start the car and check for any leaks.

end quote.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Feb 27, 2014

This engine will probably have a cast iron block, painted black. Depending on which country you are in, some year from 1994 on Toyota changed the V6 to a design with an aluminium block, the 1MZ engine. So have a look to see what the engine block is made of.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Feb 27, 2014


try to be very clear and exact.
HVAC issues?
busted, so are you saying your car hit a wall and the out front
Receiver/dryer flask was destroyed?
The Refrigerant lines are clogged?

just a wild guess?

tell the full story, im sure there is one.... and sounds real bad too.

1993 Toyota... | Answered on Feb 22, 2014

Not finding what you are looking for?

1,389 questions posted

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Popular Products

1995 Toyota Camry
1995 Toyota Camry

1,794 Questions

1994 Toyota Camry
1994 Toyota Camry

1,723 Questions

1998 Toyota Camry
1998 Toyota Camry

1,525 Questions

2002 Toyota Camry
2002 Toyota Camry

1,266 Questions

1996 Toyota Camry
1996 Toyota Camry

1,110 Questions

Top Toyota Experts


Level 3 Expert

85020 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22484 Answers

Jonah Oneal

Level 3 Expert

14092 Answers

Are you a Toyota Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

View Most Popular

Camry Toyota

  • Camry Toyota

Most Popular Question

fun running very slow lead overheating

  • Cars & Trucks