20 Most Recent 1993 Subaru Impreza - Page 9 Questions & Answers

THe engine will not fire until the ECU detects the engine is turning over at the correct speed. If it is lower then the ignition will not come into play and hence no starting. Get the output of the alternator checked but first make sure your belt on the alternator is tight enough. It should have about half an inch play either way. Anymore than this and the belt can slip and the alternator will not work properly and over time your battery will go flat. Hope this helps.

If your car has coil packs it is most likly them. Some Impreza cars especially the Turbo versions have individual coils built into the lead at the plug end. If your car has these then they crack down the side . If you take them out you can see a fine crack in the plastic. You cannot fix them, they have to be replaced. Check to see if you have them, it might help.

It sounds very much like your clutch is slipping. If the engine revs continue to rise when in gear and the car does not increase it's speed accordingly then if it is a manual car then you need a new clutch.

It sounds very much like you might have an air lock in the coolant system. If this is the case then you need to bleed the heater matrix. Lift the bonnet and look at the back of the engine . You will see two rubber hoses going into the bulkhead which is the metal panel that separates the engine compartment from the passenger compartment. Both rubber hoses will have arrows printed on them. One pointing into and one pointing out of the passenger compartment ( i.e in and out). These are the hoses that attach to the heater matrix which is like a little radiator within the car behind the dash which receives air from the heater blower . The blower forces air through the matrix fins heating the air up as it passes through. Start the car with the heater temperature switched to full on hot. Loosen the hose clip on the hose with the arrow pointing into the engine bay and NOT pointing into the passenger compartment. Loosen the rubber hose. It will be tight on there so it will need a good wiggle to loosen it. Now this bit is important. DO NOT completely disconnect this hose. You need to partially disconnect it so when the engine is running the water spurts out at high pressure from a small area of the metal pipe and hose. It is the same principle as squeezing a garden hose pipe increases the pressure in the hose and the water spurts out further. This is what is needed on the heater hose so the flow is increased and pushes any air in the system out that may be locked in the coolant system and or heater matrix. If air is trapped in the heater matrix you will see or feel it rush out of the restricted hole you make by taking the hose partially off. Once you feel a steady flow of water coming out push the hose straight back on the metal pipe as quick as you can . Turn the engine off and do up the hose clip nice and tight. You should now have a proper water flow through the heater matrix and got rid of any air in the coolant system. It is important to get rid of any air in the system . If air is trapped then this part of the system is not getting a proper coolant flow and will cause hotspots which can blow a head gasket if the air lock is in the heads or engine block. You can also sqeeze the radiator top hose with the radiator cap removed to clear an air lock at the top of the engine. If air is present you will see it bubble up in the radiator when you compress the top hose. This is best done when the engine coolant is not hot. You may scald yourself otherwise so be careful. Following the steps I have described above should stop the boiling over in the expansion tank as well and you should have a working heater.
If you still find problems with boiling over ect then it may be you have a blown head gasket increasing pressure in the cooling system and sucking in air as well. Even if there is no sign of oil in the coolant the head gasket could still be blown between a cylinder and water channel around the engine block. That is an engine out job and is not too be attempted unless you have experience .

There is a switch on top of the steering column that switches the parking light facility on and off. Check that this switch is not in the on position . If it is on then your side lights will stay on even if you turn the lights off.

check the relay. may be sticking, should be under the hood

clutch worn

I would really check the integrity of the filter. I have put new filters on and they did not flow oil very well or were defective. If it is a lifter noise it is a good thing to make sure it is not from lack of oil flow from a poor filter. It will hard face the lifter shim and will continue to tap even after change if left too long. Hope this helps and have a good day.

Hit the parking light switch at the top of the steering column. Sad to say I had this same problem for months..

93 subaru factory stereo wiring

thank you in advance !
fix ya
J5

if the engine temp seems normal on the dash gauge then it may be a clogged heater core.have the sysyem flushed-it worked for me recentlythe other options may be a heater door not closing..some are vacuum activated a flush is a good place to start..good luck

the light bulb is the load in the circuit. if the 12v. side of the circuit was shorted to ground. it would blow the fuse. the ground side of the circuit is supposed to touch ground. so the only way for a bulb have an early failure is at the bulb its self. some bulbs get so hot during operation that the oils from your skin transferred during installation will actually damage the bulb. another cause of over heating can be, loose or corroded pins in the bulb socket. this adds extra resistance to the circuit, which means more heat. i suggest when you replace the bulb the next time use a paper towel to handle the bulb with. ensuring no oil from your skin will come in contact with the bulb.

id take it back and ask them to fix it since it worked before they did the work on it

Yes u do if u use a factory boot, but there is a special split boot in the aftermarket that lets you do it with the axle in place, call a large parts store and see if they make them for your application.

I replaced the "shift lock unit" (small metal box under the dash, left of steering column) and this worked.

You have a few blown fuses; either under the hood or in the dash fusebox. Hooking up jumper cables backwards will pop a lot of fuses. I see this quite a bit.

The light is on, What is the code, is this rev limit with no load, like in nuetral?

first restore any cut ignition wires where the alarm was spliced in to the original starting system, theis will be near the steering column, then disconnect the fuse to the unit, this in most cases under the hood near the battery.

as long as you use the entire assembly, I have run across this with my brothers car, the trans axle was bad, he tied to use just the parts he needed, they were different design, so he ended up changing out the whole unit.

The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank, there may be access to the tank sender assembly through the back seat under the cushion, if not you will have to drain and remove the fuel tank, some models have the rear seat access plate some don't, you will have to check it out, also always change the fuel filter with a new pump, if the new pump fails under warranty they will ask for proof it was changed.