Top 20 2000 Volvo S40 Questions & Answers

Instructions 1 Make sure all doors are closed, as well as the hood. Make sure the tailgate or trunk is locked. Get into the car and lock all doors. 2 Insert the key and turn it from the insertion position (position I) to the "on" position (position II - not the "start" position) five times. In other words, all the dash lights come on, but the engine doesn't start. When you turn the key to ON the fifth time, leave it there. You have 10 seconds to perform this whole step. 3 Hold down each remote button for a second or two, so the car identifies those buttons as the ones to respond to. If you want multiple remotes to work for that car, you'll need to hit the buttons on each of them in rapid succession (all within 5 seconds) as well. You can program up to three remotes per car. 4 Get new batteries if the above doesn't work, and try it again. If you already have new batteries in the remote, then proceed to the next step. 5 Press and hold down the odometer reset button. 6 Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. 7 Release the odometer button while the service reminder light (SRL) flashes. Don't wait until the flashing stops to release the odometer button. If you did that, you waited too long. 8 Turn the ignition off.

You most likely had air trapped in the cooling system after the heater core replacement .Its CRITICAL all air is bled out of the cooling system ,and when servicing the cooling system not only is it important to bleed out any and all air .You also need to make sure the cooling system is topped off correctly .Since i don't know the year ,and model Its hard to say why it wont start .Unfortunately when you over heat a car to the point it dies .Then i would be more worried about cracked and or blown head gaskets .All it takes is one time on many cars To overheat it to a point of stalling many times head gaskets crack ,even cylinder heads around the valves can crack .You would be very lucky if no damage resulted from overheating ,which in this case the worst thing to happen or do is keep driving it ESPECIALLY until it stalls You should have pulled over the second you knew it was getting hot and let it cool You may have caused more damage than you realize Like i said if nothing happened from overheating the car then your extremely lucky

Motor mounts

Still sounds like the turbo. Unless you got it from a reputable place I would go back and get another.

EGR may be sticking open causing lean fuel issue .

Normally pretty simple and easy. Don't know about Volvo-maybe some models need a lot of stuff removed to get to the assembly. Look on you tube video for headlight removal on Volvos-probably some or many. That cost sounds outrageous-$260 for both headlights? I'm sure you could do it yourself, maybe just need a little guidance. Talk privately to a Volvo mechanic.

it could be one of 2 things the cam sensor or the co sensor on the exhaust, both of these when warmed up will set off an eml light and confusing error codes. as when engine is stopped they reset themselves. but codes will be logged and they need to be warmed up again. cam sensor faults is when the resistance in the sensor become erratic. as it has volts on the sensor will go up and down. co sensor can be the heater as it has to heat the sensor to make the sensor reliable. it takes a few seconds for the sensor to read. if it fails and come up on eml light but then turn engine off and then start it again it can be this cam and crank sensors work the same way they can over heat them selfs of time and will both need replacing, i found its best to replace both at the same time.

sounds like thats correct. fault camshaft position sensor or wiring to ecm is prob

Sounds like you could have a tire out of balance. Try to see if you can locate where the sound is coming from.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo-1999-and-newer-codes

Sounds like you need to replace the bulb.

Have you had the fault codes read? If not do that first.

Bad connections/wires or corrosion in them, charging system too weak, light switch going bad.

Sounds like a sticky/bad switch. You can try rapidly pressing the hazard button numerous times to see if switch will release. Usually it will. If not, you can pull the fuse for the hazards (location and identification in owners manual)

Only way to resolve this issue is to have a schematic available to trace where the hot line for your lights could be going over to the brake lights circuit and powering them on.

Check the Power Lead to the switches, if you have power it may be a corroded switch, a common problem and easy to fix by soaking the switch with WD40 and working it back and forth until it makes contact every time. Do this with the Power Off to avoid shorting the switch and clean up with a paper towel. If this does not work you will need to check the relay.

it can be only mechanical obstruction - and that meant money... check if crank is straight, check if pistons move freely...

Most likely it is a blown fuse.

You set it by the book.

Could be. Check the fuses.