20 Most Recent 2006 Plymouth Scamp Questions & Answers

The questions that have symptoms and what they have done will get the well thought out answers!

Questions that say something is broke doesn't give anyone enough information to give good advice. Plus if someone gives the impression that the client does not have the mechanical ability to follow the instructions that are given - normally won't get answered because we feel that it would be a waste of our time and the questioners also.

Well written questions that have make and model information and a well laid out series of indications that gives us some indication of what is happening will normally get an answer.

I would check the float level first if you are going to adjust the carb., carters like to flood and if you check your spark plugs you can tell if your running rich. The other adjustment you will make with a simple vacuum gauge.You should probally check distributor points,and timing as well. More info would help, like is it back firing up the carb or out the exhaust or when accelerrating or decelerating.

easiest way is to go to an auto parts store and have them test it. most do it for free.

If this is a 4 banger, my friend had a this problem. This can sometimes be caused by the rubber motor mount has deteriorated. Also if the idle speed is low it will cause vibration. And for a final cure my car pool buddy's truck had a burnt valve, bummer.

There are a few things that can cause this. 1 running your gas tank too low -junk in the gas clogs the gas filter -easy cheap fix 2 the idle could be off too much air or gas on the mixture going into the carb. 3 Timming. this should be done twice a year or so -need timing light -any garage can check it. 4 Need new spark plugs and or wires. Start with these then see what happens.

here is the distributor picture

if i knew what a header was in english and what a plymouth duster was i would help no qualms their honest ,is this vehicle a industrial vehicle ?? If you give me some information i can advise even if its a vehicle i have never seen in my long life before .got a engine i will fix it

in 1968 roadrunner you tighten castle nut until becomes tight.then tighten little more to to line up castle nut hole with ball joint stud hole.then install cotter pin through the castle nut.

These are mounted towards the back of the transmission. usaully on the passenger side. They are about 3" in diameter. only thing with a vacuum hose on it. easy to replace. I haven't done one of these in years.

May have to use the old school method. remove the plugs and rotate the engine manually
to top dead center indicated on the timing pulley, (this would be cylinder one)
then slowly rotate the engine with a breaker bar and socket.
and check the bores with a stick to see which comes up next ,then the next and so
on. (you could put a reference mark on the stick as the bore depths should
be the same ). This would at least verify whether the firing order is correct.

Depending on where you live, of course, the price may vary, but where I live it runs from six to ten dollars (US) for dismounting and mounting a tire, per wheel. :)

There is an adjustment bolt on the end of the torsion bars.

first make sure that its not the wheel cylinder's causing the leak as well okay? if so, replace. thats pretty straight forward. If it is for sure the axle seals, then you will need to remove the brake drums. take off the differential cover. there should be like 13 bolts, empty out the fluid. Rotate the differential carrier unti you can see a small bolt. remove the bolt and take out the axle pin. Once the axle pin is out, then push ONE axle in until u hear something drop. this is a c clip that drops inside housing usually will land at the bottom in the remaining oil. pick out clip. keep off to the side as u will need to reinstall this clip later. then once clip is out pull axle out of tube, and set aside. there are multiple ways to remove the seal itself. you can use a seal puller, screw driver, pry bar, or the axle itself. Becareful not to scratch the bore where the seal goes or else IT WILL LEAK. then just do the same for the other side. pay attention for the bearings and not to nick them either, or else they will need to be replaced as well and that's much more of a pain in te ***, lol..good luck!

try web resourceful.com for a complete auto manual online. hope this helps!!!

What's compression like? Has car been running well until now?

What year? Carburetor ?

Have alternator checked for faulty regulator.