2004 Jeep Wrangler - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You can run without a thermostat in the summer time but not in the Winter time

Check the horn ground. By pass the relay and feed the horn at the relay terminal. Could be a bad wire from the relay to the horn.

Most likely a belt slipping!

probably not clutch unless you are missing details clutch problems will allow the engine rpm to increase with a road speed increase but that is not what you imply if you did the brakes your self , then take it to an accredited brake shop for a proper diagnosis

yep sounds like its failing again , if you have to replace it again I would go for a non standard one and go for a heavy duty type .

need the clutch's and pressure plate replaced. clutch's are making the noise the pressure plate is making it vibrate. fix it soon.

the zipper is broken have an upholsterer replace it

try posting why you ask this firstmy guess, dash CEL glows, driving,guess 2, you get it scanned and it shows a DTC error you forgot to tell here, then assume its a bad part, named per above.why?first is to get the gas cap tight ( or new)and then push reset on the scan tool.then see if the undisclosed, DTC errors, goes away.this is first. all cars 1996 to NOW.unless building a EVAP leak down test system is fun. or easy.?? or guessing all parts in the system? why"see TJ jeep hereposted over 300 times, read the EVAP chapter.EVAP means in simple terms is GAS tank VENTING and Collection system. its a smog reduction system.2003 is free to read.http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#servicechapter 25 "emissions"page 15 answers your question.

Hesitation is usually a dirty throttle body and idle air control motor.

it sounds like you had the same problem I had a while back. There is a couple of "doors" on the blower motor that sometimes get stuck or broken, I took my jeep into an offroad shop and they fixed it with spare parts. They assured me that even if you took it to the dealer it's only like a 15-30$ part but it's the shop time that will kill you.

stock? TJ jeep that is what it is and ive posted the answer here 100s of times now. here goes again front FOGS chapter 8L covers this, (8 is wiring, L means lighting) so ? see TJ 2003 , same here. see chapter LAMPS. then wiring chapter. schematic is 8W-50 fogs. wiring + front, (index) http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service its all there, 8W-50 (page 3,8,9 and 10) if in usa, ignore EXPORT pages.... nobody here ever states there country , so..............................................mostly wrong answers.

stock car, no hacks?fuses to cluster, there are 2 fuses.the cluster has a simple self test mode, try that yet?first?2004 TJ, the book is freeread chapter 8J for self test (IIRC push trip button key on)if that fails 100% the fuses are blown.the word is "Actuator test" in that chapter.now the schematic, in chapter 8w, called wiringpage 40fuse 26 PDCand fuse 10 cab JB.the cluster is really a computer.Display system)when you jack the scan tool in, some power may leak form scan too to the display.forget the scan tool, for now,do the self test. first. if that fails, its lost power.http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#serviceposted over 100 times, now.

the electric motor that open the heat door looses electrical connection there by the door stays on cold / it is located under the a/c heater assembly / which requires removing the whole dash and heater assy// also bleed all air out of coolant system
there are three doors / 1/ a/c heat 2/ mode /defors 3/ recurculation [email protected]

On a ford all the sensors have a wire that heats them you have upstream sensors up by the engine and downstream sensors located on or before the converter.

Take radiator cap off before you start the vehicle when its cooled off of course then leave cap off watch temp gauge till it reaches normal running temp the fluid should have dropped down in the radiator add coolant itll full you may have to keep adding depending on how much air is in the system put cap back on and turn vehicle off that is how you bleed a cooling system.

is this a double post, i just posted a huge full answer just a while ago, on gc. for same pressure.. the pump check balls bad,or fuelpumpreg inside. or the injectors leak last poster too, said awhile, 1s, 1min, 1hr what is while> spec. is 1/2 min leak down or longer. so>? but keyon 4 times, is fail unplug injectors, (elect) is pressure 49 +-5 psi? and holds. now, bingo. leak down fails now. yes the filers are all in tank yes, the injectors can leak un connect fuel rail hose, to rail block it. hold pressure now yes, bad leaking injector no,, pump assy bad. assembly, why takes bench tests.

It should just unlock when you apply your brakes with the engine on.

did you release the Emergency Brake?

There are fusible links which could fail, usually in the wiring from the battery + or located near the starter motor. Also possible you have a bad light switch. Use a voltmeter to find this.

Check the ignition coil. Also check cam and crank sensors. Sounds like on of the three podsible things could be bad.