Top 20 1989 Ford Aerostar Cargo Questions & Answers

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To replace motor mount on your vehicle. Park the vehicle in level position. chock the wheels and set the parking brake, put the transmission shifter in park and disconnect the battery positive cable. Motor mount is located between engine and chassis. Support your engine whit the jack using 3/4" piece of plywood and set it under the oil pan. Loosen the motor mount bolt and lift slightly jack upward about 1/2" and remove the motor mount bushing and replace it whit new one and reverse instalation of removal process.

You may have shorted out the relay for the fuel pump try to change it out then try starting the car if that doesn't work check the pressure from the pump on the fuel rail it might have knocked out the fuel pump

sensor is failing...have it scanned...good luck and hope this helps and if so please rate my post...

The cap can be purchased at the auto parts store

Your best to use the auto range on the charger

After you hook it up, switch to the range with the
lowest amp reading & leave it on for 6 hours

Has to be on 12 volts, if that is an option

They are mounted on the inside right front fender area. The low-pitch horn is the uppermost horn assembly and the high-pitch horn is mounted just below and forward of it.

your engine is worn out if the oil pump is gone. it is 21 years old. you can spend a grand getting a lower mileage engine and install it, or you can spend the same money and get a vehicle 10 years newer.

Check all the pullies that run the belt, make sure they all spin free without any looseness or noise. If so, replace the belt.

Check if you have changed some cable as this will produce shots and crank the engine works or jump spark for some cable

1989 ford transit ,with a york 2.4 diesel engine a real white van man motor ,knocks any american big bore gas guzzling CO2 emmiting junk into shame .right what do want too know

have you had the throttle cleaned? Sounds like your fuel pump may be getting hot and cutting out. Its possible it could be a faulty ignition module,but that usually just causes a no start not a suptter and stall.

Replace the starter solenoid.

there is 2 ways you can do that...1... is there should be a #1 stamped into the cap but not always so in that case... 2... turn the engine over by hand and line up the timing marks on the harmonic balancer (A straight line cut into it on the outside diameter) with the mark on the timing gear cover to TDC,OR 0 degrees,pull off the cap and look to see where the rotor is pointing on the distributor.MARK that location on the intake manifold or wherever it points to as a reference point.Usually the rotor at this point will point towards the rear of the engine,start #1 there and follow the firing order,if it backfires or does not want to start then double check the direction you are going with the firing order and double check the order and if it still backfires or does not want to run then try opposite direction or 180 degrees on the cap and start #1 there and follow the firing order the direction the rotor turns while cranking.The reason why it could be 180 degrees off is because when the timing marks are lined up,the intake valve could be open or the both valves are shut.The correct way is to pull off a valve cover and see if both rocker arms are floating,in other words that both valves would be shut--Thats when you know #1 cylinder is all the way up and the rotor will point that direction on the cap,but im trying to save you tons of work by leaving the valve cover alone.

check the voltage to the alternator it could be low therefore draining your battery. You can do a voltage test at your nearby parts store free of charge.

I dont believe there is. Hope you have an empty tank.

you have a blocked air vent in the gas tank not allowing the air to release.

Replace cause your temp gauge will read normal, being it's coolant temp sensor not an air sensor will give you bad reading. Replace will damage your engine.

replace the fuel pump...if there was no pressure in the line going to the fuel filter, then there's only one thing that feeds that filter...its the fuel pump like i previously thought..the tune up? great idea...that's what made me think it wasn't spark related. good on you for doing the air filter...that is one of the most over looked parts for replacement on a car...it cost you as much as 10% more fuel if its bad...and long term hard start issues....replace you fuel pump AND the screen at the bottom at the same time...oh yeah, use a good quality pump....it has to last you a long time..

oh sorry, and when the fuel pump is out, check out the wiring harness, make sure no corrosion is present, no pins are bent, the connetor pigtail is not damaged etc...then replace the pump...thanks and let me know again.

Most of the time the gauge unit in the tank goes bad but turning the key on and off won't make any difference. Near the tank there is a multi wire electrical connector, With it unplugged and the key on probing the wires to the front of the truck with a test light one of the wires will light in a slow blinking, This is the gas gauge. with the light blinking the gauge should read something. un plugged should read empty and cross the light to ground it should read full. If the light doesnt come on your on the way back to the dash the wire could be in troble anywhere. repairs for other things are ussally the cause. If the test light check worked then the sending unit in the tank is bad and it will need to be replaced. Repairing them doesn't seem to stay fixed. A gas theif may have run into it with a hose and they can't take much banging around. The fuel gage and fuses are next. The temperture gauge works on the same power if it works OK the power is good. Then its the gage or the wire the is a voltage limiter card in a slot next to the gage in the cluster . The dealer can order a new one when you call them with the VIN and tell them you want the fuel gauge limiter module. If you have the skills to remove the cluster and see the module 1 in. X 2 in. flat electrical card. It has a part # on it and the dealer can verify that your looking at the right part. the gages seldom fail unless their submerised in water. Har driving can sometines loosen the connections to the cluster and redoing them and turning it on again, may correct thr problem. do this with the card and the gage too before you but anything, check the wire from the gage module maks it all the way to the gas tank with a jumper wire and a test light as the wire being broken somethere is most common.

It's under the hood between the master cylinder and the fender Originally there was a plastic box covering it, which may be missing on a car that old.