20 Most Recent 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Questions & Answers

That usually causes a whole heap of troubles because the amp and radio are connected to the BCM and are part of the computer system. Things like turn signal clickers and door open chimes are actually part of the radio / amp system. https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+ford+explorer+sport+trac+bypass+factory+amplifier ..

33 lb/ft + 90 degrees.

Question edited for clarity, year make model specs and throw in some upper case letters. Question moved to model category. Pictures in the link. One coil pack, 6 wires. You only have to look at the spark plugs and follow the wire back to find the answer to your question! https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+Ford+Explorer+Sport+Trac+coil+pack ..

possibly or a bad battery

Remove mass air flow sensor Clean and re-set connector to it. See if that helps. Worked on my 94 4.0.

Was this code taken from the vehicles speedo display or an actual OBD2 diagnostic scanner? Speedo display codes are NOT DTC codes. They are also very vague and often are difficult to find out what they are actually for. Get the vehicle plugged in to a full diagnostic system or an OBD2 scanner to find any correct DTC codes. A correct DTC code is a letter followed by four numbers.

https://repairpal.com/what-can-cause-my-ford-explorer-sport-trac-to-lose-power-going-up-hills-031 seems a known issue https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+ford+explorer+sport+trac+loosing+power ..

Hi there:Check this on 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Audio Wiring Schematic:Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Light GreenCar Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/BlackCar Radio Ground Wire: BlackCar Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/RedCar Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/ACar Stereo Power Antenna Trigger Wire: N/ACar Stereo Amp Turn-On Trigger Wire: N/ACar Stereo Amplifier Location: N/ACar Audio Front Tweeter Size: N/ACar Audio Front Tweeter Depth: N/ACar Audio Front Tweeter Location: N/ALeft Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light GreenLeft Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/WhiteRight Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/OrangeRight Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Light GreenCar Audio Front Speakers Size: 6" x 8" SpeakersCar Audio Front Speakers Depth: 2 1/2"Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/ALeft Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light BlueLeft Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/YellowRight Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/RedRight Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/PinkCar Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6" x 8" SpeakersCar Audio Rear Speakers Depth: 3"Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/ACar Subwoofer Speaker Size: 8" SubwooferCar Subwoofer Speaker Depth: 4"Car Subwoofer Speaker Location: N/ACar Subwoofer Speaker Positive Wire (+): N/ACar Subwoofer Speaker Negative Wire (-): N/AHope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

It looks like you've got a shortcut somewhere in cabling. I'd try to disconnect output from audio first.

have the fault codes read possible alternator belt broke battery terminals loose ground wire not connected

I went through this with my Nissan Altima and ended up replacing the ignition. Worked great!

Ford Explorer 4 0L V6 SOHC P0171 P0174 Lean Codes Common Cause

watch these videos and you will see what you need to do. 1999 Ford Ranger Idle Air Control Replacement 1999 Ford Ranger cleaning the throttle body part 1 YouTube Testing and Replacing Throttle Position Sensor Ford Explorer you will notice a world of difference.

Don't think it would be the fuel rail, as that is only a pipe to hold the gas and the injectors. So if you have low pressure, it is probably either the fuel pump or the fuel pressure regulator. Wouldn't cost much if anything to have the fuel pressure checked. I believe Autozone or O'reilly's will rent those fuel pressure gauges, with just a refundable deposit. The pump is doing something since the engine is still running. If your pressure is too low (below the specs for your truck), a pressure regulator is cheaper than a pump, so you may have to try both, first the regulator. But first, pull the vacuum line to the regulator off and run the engine for a minute. Watch the regulator: if gas starts coming out the vacuum fitting on the regulator, then it is definitely shot and you need a new pressure regulator. If the regulator is not leaking, check the fuel pressure. If low probably the pump, but maybe the pressure regulator. Ask the guys at autozone (or where you get the gauge to check pressure) how to test the regulator as you are checking the pressure.

there is a pressure build up in the fuel tank Check the EVAP system venting /purge valve operation

Yeah ford would just replace it , You need a company that installs sun roofs they may well have just the seals for this sun roof , I would google sunroof installers in you area and see if there is one local who will fix this . I would say this is also not helping with you other problems .

Try https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=2004%20ford%20explorer%20fuse%20box%20diagram

It runs from the tank to the frame(drivers side) up to the engine. I don't and you should splice fuel lines. I replace all of it. Plastic or metal. If the leak is coming around the sides of the tank, this could be the fuel sending unit.