20 Most Recent 1995 Ford Aerostar - Page 8 Questions & Answers

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There were alot of problems with the 3.8 V6. Overheating and head cracking. You'd be very lucky to find a 95 without the proble. 95-96 were the worst years. May want to consider the Mercury villager. Same as the Nissan Quest.

change oil to 15W50

try bleeding themm when done front driver side then crisscross back passangerside then front passenger and last but not least back driver side. get all air out if that dont do it you have a vaccumm leak one small vaccum line can have a dramatic effect

sounds as if the crank positioning sensor inside the distributor is faulty. I believe you can purchase a new module for around 30 dollars. The module is usually on the side of the distributor and held on by two screws. Unplug the module from the harness, remove the old one and bolt the new one into place. Plug the new one back into the harness and the car should start.

sounds like the bands could be streched i have a similar problem with my holden when we checked it it lines had a huge crack in them from the mechanic not tying them up which ment loosing a huge amount of fluid which then lead to it not changing gears properly or not at all. id be having the lines checked for cracks and the oil pick up checked as if its not picking the fluid up properly the the trans is trying to forse it up also try a different brand of fluid i have found with my car that it dont work properly if the fluid is to thin

time to go see the mechanic or the engine rebuilder
it is rare but on ocation i have seen 2 things do this

1 water pump rotation not right

2 calcium build up in motor from use of water and never any cooland

if there is history of calcium pour a jug of clr in the rad and start and after reachec temp let sit for 1 hour then drain and refill system with 50 / 50 mix

You can download an owners manual from fleet.ford.com go to maintenance tab and select owners manual, enter your vehicle information and download the manual, the pictures are in there. If 1995 is not a year selection, then use 1996 it should be the same. Hope this helps, let me know.

Hello! You probably don't want to hear this but...Take your dash apart until you can view all connectors. Find the brown lead in the headlight switch connector...This lead feeds tail/turn signal lights..With key on...Turn on headlight switch and check for battery on brown wire...If there is no battery...Turn off key...disconnect negative battery terminal...Using an ohm meter set on the X10 scale...Trace lead back to fuse block; you are looking for an open. Check the fuse (15amp).

Next check that dash has a solid ground connection to the body.

Keep me informed via comments.

Guru.................saailer


I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

not an unsual problem nor is it an issue problem, the steering column will have to come apart, any local garage can fix it

the radriator could be leaking, there are transmission cooler lines that go to the rad.

Unplug the coil or the fuel injector harness.

use slim jim. work it close to where you put the key to unluck it.

The only time the heater control valve will have vacuum is when the a/c is set on max.

Loosen the radiator cap to the first notch, not the overflow bucket and turn your heater on including fan and take the van for a short drive to get it up to operating temp. This will let the coolant circulate and release the air from the system. Top up the rad and leave the cover loose for a day or 2 and you should be able to close it tightly and be okay. Hope this helps.

This is from the workshop manual, direct quote.

Generator, Aerostar
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
2. Remove snow/ice shield.
3. Remove engine air cleaner intake tube (9A624).
4. Disconnect generator wiring at the voltage regulator (VR) (10316).
5. Remove attaching nut and wire from generator (GEN) (10346) output terminal.
6. Remove wiring connector bracket.
7. Loosen the drive belt tensioner (6B209) and remove the drive belt (8620).
8. Remove generator brace (10B315) and bolt attaching generator to drive belt tensioner bracket.
9. Remove generator from the generator mounting bracket (10153).
Installation
1. Position generator on the generator mounting bracket.
2. Install the attaching bolts and tighten to 40-54 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
3. Install the drive belt over generator pulley (10344).
4. Adjust the drive belt tensioner as outlined in Section 03-05.
5. Install wiring terminal and attaching nut on generator output terminal.
6. Install wiring connector bracket.
7. Install engine air cleaner intake tube.
8. Install snow/ice shield.

Unplug the Air flow meter. Try and start it. If it starts then you need a new AFM. If not then it can be any of the ton of sensors on the motor. You might have to have it looked at by a shop. Good luck.

drain all the fuel you can from the tank, SAFELY using proper saftey equipment, place the vehicle on jack stands, disconnect the battery, place a jack under the tank, remove fuel cap, remove 3 screws holding filler neck to the inside of fuel filler door compartment, remove tank straps, remove driveshaft, lower tank slightly & remove fuel neck, wires, fuel couplings, lower tank & remove from vehicle. Carefully remove locking ring from the tank where it holds down the fuel pump asy, remove pump asy & replace components as needed, reassemble, check for leaks, road test vehcile

from a professional standpoint, yes you SHOULD replace them all. however we are all on budgets and as a professional, for my clients, i would not INSIST they replace them all.

Each coil tower or the middle of the coil pack, is marked. There should be a sticker in the middle that shows which wires go where, clean it off and look real close