1992 Ford Aerostar Extended - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Facing the engine from the front, with the cap on, the #1 slot is on the left hand side of the cap, the last one just before the clip, the distributor rotates clockwise. After #1 then 4,2,5,3,6, going clockwise.

check the fuel supply lines and the filter in the tank maybe its clogged

Hi, without testing the car, and knowing miealge on car, ill guess coil is faulty or you can go to any large parts store the new franchise type. They will come out and put a tester on usually free and just might save you a lot of money, before a mechanic tells you to rebuild the motor for 3,000. Good luck to you! Frankie!

It could be the seals. Check for dirt and stuff in the channels and check for perishing rubbers.I hope this helps

Remove the axle nut from the spindle, remve the spindle from the strut to allow room to remove the axle from the spindle, tap the axle out of the spindle. Once loose put a pry bar between the transmission and the axle and pry the axle out of the transmission. Might be a little hard to pry out but it will pop right out. Then to put the new one it just put it in, line it up and tap it in, be sure to torque your axle nut to the correct specifications when tightening or you will have a bad wheel bearing in no time.

Did you look on autozone's website or check out a Haynes repair manual ?

There is a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. It could be bad. To check this pull off the vacuum line and turn the ignition on without trying to start the car. If fuel comes out of the vacuum hose fitting the fuel pressure regulator is bad. Another possibility is a bad fuel pump. Check your fuel preasure. If low or non exisitant replace fuel pump only after checking fuel pressure regulator. Good luck.

There is a small allen head set screw in the bracket. You will need a proper size allen wrench to loosen the screw, then the mirror should slide off the windshield mounted bracket.
Hope this helps!

the voltage regulator would be built into the altinator

Did U replace the turn signal relay switch?

driver side, behind dash, driver side of steering column, mounted above fuse panel

Remove the upper motor mount's bolt(s) & rotate the engine forward. When done rotate back & replace bolt(s). Easy. Good luck!

on the inside of back panel inside

Water in the fuel will cause the engine to spit and sputter,no power,and engine miss fire.Please rate if this was at all helpful,thank you,and use HEET ,two bottles to remove the water,and lucas fuel treatment one bottle,for fuel contaminates.

Check this procedure...

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the wiring connector from the instrument panel, located in the engine compartment, by loosening the bolt and separating the connector halves.
3. Remove the left and right windshield inside mouldings.
4. Remove the defroster grille.
5. Remove the glove compartment door finish panel.
6. Remove the instrument panel steering column cover.
7. Remove the four bolts attaching the steering column lower reinforcement. Remove the reinforcement.
8. Remove the right and left cowl side panels.
9. Remove the two nuts retaining the hood latch control handle and cable assembly to the left cowl side. Remove the control handle and cable assembly, then reinstall the nuts to hold the bracket and relay in place.
10. Detach the wiring on the left cowl side panel and, if equipped, the vacuum hose harness connector. The number and location of the connectors may vary depending on optional equipment.
11. Detach the brake light switch wiring connector. Detach the clutch pedal position switch on manual transmission equipped vehicles.
12. Remove the steering column-to-extension shaft pinch bolt. Compress the extension shaft toward the engine, then separate from the column U-joint.
13. Detach the transmission control selector indicator from the steering column.
14. Disconnect the wiring from the windshield wiper intermittent control module and, if equipped, the wiring from the low oil level relay. Both are located to the right of the steering column.
15. Disconnect the radio antenna lead-in cable at the right cowl side panel.
16. Disconnect the heater temperature cable. If equipped, detach the vacuum hose harness connector.
17. Remove the five screws attaching the top of the instrument panel to the cowl side top panel.
18. Remove the one nut attaching the lower right side of the instrument panel to the cowl side panel.
19. Remove the two rearward nuts, then loosen the two forward nuts located to the right of the steering column, attaching the instrument panel to the center mounting bracket.
    

The following removal steps require the help of an assistant.

1. Support the instrument panel. Remove the three bolts and one nut attaching the instrument panel to the left cowl side panel.
2. Carefully pull the instrument panel rearward, then disconnect any remaining wires or other components.
3. Carefully remove the instrument panel through the left front door.
4. If replacing the instrument panel, transfer all the components to the replacement instrument panel.

continue...

If its power windows and it won't go up and down it may be a problem with the switch or the motor. If it's Manual windows take the door panel off, look to see if it slipped off the regulator track. Pull the window up and down to see if something looks out of place. Most likely something just popped out or slipped out of place. Good luck.

corrosion at the battery will cause this too

In the old days, I would have said a leaking fuel pump diaphragm, but that can't happen anymore.

Assuming the engine does not run as rough as one with a bad plug would be, then I would suspect an injector.
If an injector does not seal up when off, then about a pint of gas will slowly drip into the crankcase every night.

Remove the injectors from the manifold, but leave on the fuel rail. Then turn the key or shunt the relay in order to turn the fuel pump on for a few seconds. The injectors should only fire intermittanly when their time comes. After that there should be no drips. If one is dripping or has a bad spray pattern that is not a cone, replace it.

Below is a guide to troubleshoot and check system function. This can be done by most folks.

Look at the front of the ac compressor and have someone turn on the ac from inside the car. The front of the pulley(clutch) will spin when turned on.

If it does not spin, the low pressure switch (LPS) is not satisfied. Meaning there is not enough freon in the system to operate the system. Means low freon capicity because of a leak.

The LPS can be jumpered to cause the compressor to run (clutch to engaged) which will draw the freon in the system.

The LPS is usually a two wire sensor on the suction of the compressor. (between evaporator and compressor) Unplug the sensor and install a jumper, this will engage the clutch. Connect a new can of freon
and fill to system capacity.

The capacity of the ac system will be on a label under the hood, do not overfill. Probably about 2 lbs. Local parts stores (Auto Zone and Advance) will have freon with stop leak. This may help the leak. They also make a freon with a UV dye. I always add a single can with dye so that if stop leak does not work I can find the leak in the future.

The system should be filled until suction pressure is about 30 to 38 psi..

Remember the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction.

Here is a website that a free manual can be down loaded for your vehicle


http://ezinearticles.com/?Find-the-Free-Auto-Repair-Manual-You-Need-Online&id=92717