20 Most Recent 1997 GMC Suburban - Page 6 Questions & Answers

the arms going to the wipers are broken they are called the transmission arms see if there is a clip that holds them to the motor or maybe a bolt has worked its way loose if not replace the transmission for the wipers

I would use some Castrol High Mileage 10w/30 weight oil.

It depends on the type of car. It would help a bit to know which type of car it is. And I must say one more thing before beginning this explanation; HAVING A REPAIR MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR IS THE BEST WAY TO KNOW RECOMMENDED PROCEDURES. IT IS THE BEST $20 YOU CAN SPEND FOR YOUR CAR.

Frame- Place jack to frame or a shock/strut mount. If the vehicle is very old and you worry about mounts being weak then do not use the shock or strut mount. If the metal is weak the mount will bend and break off, then you will be asking us for tips about welding. AFTER YOU HAVE JACKED UP THE CAR ENOUGH TO DO WHAT YOU NEED: PUT THE CAR ON A JACKSTAND OR TWO. THE EXTRA STEPS ARE WORTH IT TO GUARANTEE THE CAR WILL NOT FALL ON YOU.

No Frame(Unibody)- Has a few areas where the metal has been bent and stacked to make the style more rigid. you can often find these areas around the sideskirt. You should see a sharp ridge running down the side of the car about 2-4 inches past the sideskirt. That ridge is generally okay to support Gross Vehicle Weight. I have also jacked up a car by using the lower control arm; where it mounts to the car, not the tire--DO NOT USE THE TIRE END OF THE CONTROL ARM, IT WILL RUIN A STRUT UNIT.

You may need a Wiper Transmission, if bushings are broken for the the linkage.

As you put in your question - Fuel pump? I would agree that this is the best place to start. Check the electrical supply when ignition is on. Listen to the pump when the ignition is switched to position 2 you should be able to hear it. If any doubt persists clamp off the fuel lines to and from the pump to isolate it, and then remove it. Just before doing so note its response when still connected to the electrical supply. Many faults with pumps can be solved by stripping it down and then cleaning components and electrical contacts with a tooth brush and emery board nail file. When reassembled try connecting the electrical supply and comparing its response to the way it behaved prior to strip down. Reconnect the fuel lines. If the problem persists check the pick-up pipe in the tank and the in-line fuel filter for possible blockages. Interesting observation that you had about the need to add a couple of gallons. I would bet that just releasing the fuel filler cap and refitting it would have the same effect as adding more gas. Within the fuel tank there is partial evaporation of gas and this can slightly pressurize the fuel line. When a small amount of gas is used a partial vacuum is caused preventing flow to the engine. Releasing the filler cap should allow the internal tank pressure to equalise with atmospheric pressure.

Fuel pump needs to be more pressure than this.

Have the fuel pump checked for fuel pressure. Sounds like you got residual pressure but not sufficient running pressure.

Higher than normal oil pressure is usually caused by a stuck pressure relief valve in the oil pump assembly.

If the compressor will run turn it on and let it run for a few minutes, the line that gets cold is the low pressure side, this is usually the one closest to the firewall. The reason that they are 6 inches apart is that they are on opposite sides of the orfice tube, hence one is high pressure and one is low.

Sounds like your catalytic converters may be plugged up. You can do a quick check by loosening the exhaust pipes from the manifolds and see how it performs.

Could be a fan clutch issue.Also check condition of belt.Might need to have radiator flushed out.

sounds like A/C compresser is seized

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0161
This site explains in great detail each trouble code.
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0137
Here's the other one.
Like I said,this site does an excellent job of explaining what's going on with your code.

Good chance that it will be a bad heater core if your floor boards are getting wet, but has the inside of your windshield been fogging up. Most of the time when a heater core goes bad, the inside of the windshield fogs up. If the leak is not that bad, you can add 2 to three table spoon of common kitchen black pepper. The Black pepper will work it's way to the leak and plug it up till your can have it repaired properly and the black pepper will clean up easily when the cooling system get's flushed. Good luck and this should by you some time so you can work on it in the summer. Don't use any radiator stop leak, they just make a mess to your cooling systems water ways.

Try adjusting the brake light switch under the dash. You should be able to adjust it in or closer to the point the switch makes contact with the brake rod. There will be a 2 or 3 wire switch-body above the break pedals upper pivot (Usually). There should be a locking nut and some washers that you'll have to remember the order they were in, IF you end up taking the switch out to check it. Do any animals sleep in the vehicle at night? Could one be leaning on\laying against the pedal keeping the lights on I know, not very likely. It could be that your vacuum booster is failing and it's getting stuck near the end of the shuttle-rod. I'll bet it's the boosters diaphragm getting old and stiff and the springs (fingers) are getting pretty old as well and they aren't pushing the shuttle-rod far enough back to open the switch. Have you tried pulling up on the break pedal to see if the lights shut off'? That's the first thing I'd do to see if this just need some adjustment or if some parts need replacing.
Hope this helps. Let me know if this helped you resolve the issue.

It's a pretty big job you have to pull the steering wheel diable the airbag and pull out the entire dash. the heater core itself shpuld cost from 100-200 dollars but labor will run you about 500-800 dollars. good luck.

The axle probably lost a keeper ring on the inside of the differential and the pieces may be going through the differential and ring&pinion gearing making the noises you hear. You will need to drain the oil out, find the broken pieces, and inspect all gearing for broken/damaged teeth, and for any noisy bearings. Flush the case out with cleaning solvent. Re-insert the loose axle after cleaning and inspecting it well--especially the interior end. Replace the keeper (new) on the axle end inside the differential spider gearing. Inspect the brakes on the loose axle side for any oil deposits and for any damage that might have been caused when the axle came out. If the differential is badly damaged, it might be cheaper to find another rear end in a wrecking yard. Hope this helps!

Most are under dash inside heater box you have to disconnect all cables and hose lines .before you can remove core also have to drain coolant out of core...It is a lot of work and not always easy to get back in and sometimes cables do not work as well as they did before repair i personally suggest you get a price from a good Rad shop it may save you a lot of greif in the long run....good luck on your decision also in my taraus I had to remove the entire dash to get at the core

Your Suburban needs to be hooked up to a transfer case/transmission capable scanner.

There is shift test built in a good scanner to test things out.
You need to get codes and do the shift test to find the problem.
Have it scanned and the mechanic will be able to tell you the issue.