20 Most Recent 1995 Mazda B-Series Questions & Answers

If you have a manual gear box there are two things that you can check. First is the engine mounts especially the rear one to see if the rubber has broken away. Check all engine mounts for the same problem.. The second is a failing clutch or if you have a cable operated clutch it points to engine mounts. What appears to be happening is when you engage the clutch in first gear the torque reaction of the engine is rolling the gear box away from the clutch actuation arm or lever. The clutch slips ,the engine rolls back ,the clutch engages , the engine rolls and so you have a bad shudder. When you are moving the reaction is less as you move up through the gears . If all is good then have a qualified clutch and brake specialist do a check on the clutch itself.

The battery light will only come on if the voltage supplied to the alternator is lower than the current battery voltage. It is either the alternator or instrument panel. I've never seen an instrument panel go bad on those. Look at the alternator, I've seen one with a motor mount that went bad and the alternator was laying on the frame grounding out the alternator.

Might just be the brake light fuse is blown.

The first step into seeing why the check engine light is on is to scan the codes, the computer will turn on this light when it sees a problem and then it stores codes . the codes are stored to tell you what part of the system has failed, you will need to go to an auto part store and they will scan it for free and give you a printout of the codes, good day.

if it is going straight to the floor it is probably your slave cylinder, it is located on the side of the transmission and is fairly easy to replace. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_00678fd4800d19c5

Hi Wanda, Below is a diagram for you. I would replace all the wires not just one. Remember the best way to do it is to replace one at a time so you don't forget how they are routed, I hope this helps and good luck.

You're going to find that it is best to leave airlines alone as they tend to do their job pretty well weather or not they are hooked up to anything. See, the air is all around us and they can just **** it in or push it out however they want. If you want to create some suction to improve vehicle performance. attach a smaller hose to the current one and just let 'em ride my friend, let 'em ride.

I could help you with this but I need to know if you are talking about suspension or transmission...

the easy way is to go to a dealership or used car lot and see if there is a diagram on other trucks "like yours". As for changing the belt, there are diagrams and illustrations in your truck in your local library.

Clean up the ground points first. Bare shiny metal is what you need. Also remove and bare up the power wires and reattach. Make sure your belt has good tension. You shouldn't be able to spin the alternator by hand if the tension is good. Hope this helps.

yes it can

IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A MISFIRE, THE RESON THE LIGHT IS FLASHING IS SO YOU WON'T DRIVE IT. THE FLASHING LATS YOU KNOW THAT YOU ARE GOING TO DAMAGE THE CATALITIC CONVERTER. HAVE THE CODES CHECKED AND THAT SHOULD TELL YOU WHAT CYLINDER IS MISSING.

Go inside engine bay.loolk for the heater blower motor.your heater core is behind that.and it will give you an idea to if its easy gotten to.u usually dont have to remove the dash.just some plastic shrouds.see where your heater hoses go in from engine bay and thats where itll be

Check the rectifier, its job is to charge the battery whenever the engine is running, however seems to be doing the opposite. Get it repaired or replaced, unless u have plans to junk the vehicle...........sodeep

sounds like the battery itself is bad... try installing a new one to fix the problem... also check all your grounds on the vehicle and make sure they are all connected, and not broken, or rusted over.

the mazda pickups are just like the ford rangers the rotor and hub are the same on the front you would have to take off your brake caliper and mount then you would have to take nut off the spindle and then slide the rotor off. the you will have to replace the bearing races and the wheel seal in the back to replace the races your going to have to hammer them out with a screwdriver or chisel then the new races have to be hammered in try not to bend them use a peice of board to get them even with the rotor then take a big socket or pipe the same diamiter to finish hammering it in. if you have a rubber malet it will be better to use that. make sure you grease the bearings really good before you but them in and put extra grease in the rotor before sliding in on the spindle when you put the new seal in make sure to very lightly tap it in to place when you tighten the nut back down a good rule of thunb is to tighten then turn the rotor to make sure you've gotten tight enough but not to tight and always put a new carter key in.