20 Most Recent 1995 Chevrolet Suburban - Page 4 Questions & Answers

look at the blower motor resistor connector and the blower motor connector itself if nothing there replace blower and resistor the connectors are prone to getting really hot and melting the connectors

could be lots of things does it crank? is so check to see if you are out of gas

There are a couple of types of switches but lets assume you have a more common one. It will be located on the left side of the brake pedal shaft it is black with 4 wires in one connector and a seperate 2 wire connector above the 4 wire connector. The switch is easily removed if it is this style by pulling it down it has 2 clips one at the top and one that slides over the pedal shat the back of the switch has a rased hump tha slides into a recess on the upper pedal support bracket.Grab switch pull down and gently wiggle it if necessary.Remove 4 wire connector and 2 wire connector. Now you are holding the old switch and yor troubles have just started the after market replacement switches really **** get a real gm swich.If you look at the old swich at its bottom you will see a little foot sticking out of the base of the swich once the new swich is installed you must use the little foot to adjust the swich.If you do this wrong you will do dammage to your transmission.The two wires at the top of the swich go to the transmission torque converter clutch.when the brake lights are on the upper swich is off. When brake lights are off the swich will be on.Get new swich installed using this info and get a pro to help you adjust it.It should cost you only 35 bucks to get it set.Dealer shouldnt charge more than 30 bucks for switch.
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IN THE TANK

Hi Tim, I believe the problem will be either the electronic control module or a fouled operating mixing valve. Try operating the mixing valve directly from inside the engine compartment first and check if that makes a difference. If that fails, get a diagnostic scan carried out on the climate control. Regards John

Removing the dash is a huge job and in most cases not for the novice

The transmission has failed. You will need it removed from the car and overhauled or a rebuilt unit installed.

If the battery won't hold a charge sometimes, it could have a dead cell. You would take the battery out and have it tested or drive the truck to a shop for the test.The extra wire may be a feed for one of the fuse boxes if it is on the positive cable.

The problem is %90 likely to be a blown fuse. I was recently driving around at night, conscious of the fact that my dashboard (gauge) lights were out, but was unaware of my tail (driving) lights being out as well. This lead to an unpleasant run-in with the law. i fought the law and well, the law won.but seriously, look in your fuse box, im not aware of exactly the suburban but i drive a '97 S-10 and they are under the steering column/dash. You gotta lay on your back to get up in there alot of the times. I know in newer chevy's they're under the hood but, should be a 20A fuse, good luck.

r134

134a

The oil pressure switch is usually near the oil filter.And yes it can leak.

Check engine light on ?Have you checked for trouble codes ?

they run off of the same compressor if rear is cold and front is hot the hot and cold function in the heater box is not working possible cable problem ? or a vacum line under dash

if u have access to a multimeter u switch the setting to continuity test(its a pic of sound) place the leads on either end of the fuse and if the multimeter beeps the fuse is good.