2003 Chevrolet S-10 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I need a diagram for s10 rear brake lines 4x4 4.6 liter

1. check fuses
2. scan it
3. RTM

read the manual on 4wd controls https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

Well if the coil is good, the only thing it could be is the lead from the coil to the distributor cap, Take the lead out of the cap and place it on the engine block somewhere, But do not hold it on there whilst the key is turned, Get a friend to watch for a spark as you turn the key, if it sparks, There is something wrong with you distributor cap, if it doesn't spark then you could have problems with the electronic ingition

replace the thermostat.

splice in a new line between damaged area

hi, did you check the fuses? try pulling out the cluster and check the conectors and bulbs. let me know if that help you.

Use a 3/8 inch ratchet and rotate the tensioner (located down on the left side of the engine) counter clockwise. Use the ratchet without any socket, you will not be turning it with the bolt. As the ratchet loosens the belt, remove the belt and note how it goes over all the pulleys. Put the new belt on over all the pulleys except the pulley on the top center of the engine. Rotate the tensioner counter clockwise to allow enough slack to slip the belt on the last pulley. Check the belt and make sure it is on all the pulleys. Start the engine and make sure it is rotating correctly. It would be a good idea to remove the negative battery connection so there is little chance to shorting the system while you are working on it.

When an engine won't crank, you have to determine whether it is an ignition problem, or a fuel problem. S0, first check for fire at the spark plug. If no fire there, then you have to trace back the source of fire, until you find the bad component. If you get fire at the plug, then the problem is in the fueling system.

There is an electronic control module for the 4X4 system , can set DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's . Part stores can't pull these code's . Your best bet ,take it to a qualified repair shop.

Not sure what vehicle or engine.

You're making the most common DIY mistake in thinking that whatever part is listed in the trouble code is what you need to replace. In your case the most important codes are: P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) Oxygen sensors don't work well unless they're up to a certain temp. That's why they have heaters. So these codes are telling you there's a problem with the O2 sensor HEATER circuit. That could be a blown fuse or a problem with the wiring harness. Since the heaters aren't working, it makes perfect sense that you'd get the two other codes. Check the fuse for the O2 sensor heaters. Oxygen fuse in underhood fuse box (20A). If it's blown, replace it. If it blows again, you've got a short somewhere. Start by unhooking the all the O2 sensors. If the fuse doesn't blow, plug them in one at a time. Get it?

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hi, sounds like the sending unit rheostat(sending unit) has a bad contact or break in the resistance wire. inside the tank theres a float attached to an arm that goes to a small rheostat, like a volume control on a stereo. the rheostat is sending a scratchy signal or no signal to the computer and your getting these readings. that part is inside the gas tank, the part usually comes integrated with the fuel pump. the gas tank has to be lowered to fix it. jm

sounds like your alternator may be failing to charge the battery, you can take it off and have it tested, most parts stores will bench test it for free. if thats fine then you may just need to get a new battery

Clutch problem .

In the under hood fuse box , B/U LP 25amp .

Remove the bolts on the hinges for that door and any attached linkage and it will come off

I use 2 ounces in the compressor and 4 ounces in the driers when I install new units there should be a total of 6 to 8 ounces in the entire system and no more. New compressors are assembled with some oil to test them so even ones with the dry warning stickers have about a ounce in them.

As of 2000 they put the evap canister underneath by the gas tank also purge solenoid is either mounted on or near it , they changed the design of them also they are no longer round they are kind of rectangular in shape and have clip style quick connects on the hoses.

Should go right in place , may have to use the 2000 mounting plates and u bolts however. Also may have to flash the computer to get the speedometer recalibrated depending upon if the gears have a different gear ratio.