20 Most Recent 1983 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Check to make sure that you dont have a vacuum line off. Your vehicle should shift out @ around 15-20 mph under a smooth slow acceleration.

You need to have a test light,,,they are cheap to buy,purchase one ,and remove the negative battery terminal from the battery.Connect one end of the test light to the cable(the clip)And touch the tip of the test light to the post on the battery,the negative,and with the doors closed,and no hood light in the socket,with everything else off,the test light should not come on,if it does,there is a draw on the battery,try unplugging the alternator plug,see if the light goes off,if it does,the alternator is bad,then try pulling one fuse at a time,until the light goes off,this circuit will be the problem,remember to pull the fuse for the dome lights,cause you will have the door open,I have see clock radios draw voltage like this,and alternators also,If this helps,please let us know,thank you.

The fuse block on all models is located under the left hand side of the instrument panel. All flashers are mounted on the fuse block. Each fuse is marked on the fuse block as to which circuit it is protecting. Some early models also use an in-line 30 amp, fuse for the air conditioning hi-blower, located at the cowl relay and an in-line 10 amp, fuse for power antennas.

Check this diagrams...



Fig. 19: Chassis wiring - 1981-83 Cutlass




Fig. 20: Chassis wiring - 1981-83 Cutlass continued


Hope this help.

you might check the transmission fluid, under the hood on the left side i think... shift from park to reverse a few times, put the transmission in neutral and leave the engine running, check transmission fluid level, if the fluid is good then transmission may be out

They should fit but they are alot wider than the original tires. They will likely hit the frame when you make a hard turn so you will have to adjust your parking skills accordingly. You should double check the width of the rear wheel wells although there should be enough room to clear the bigger tires. You should get a wider 8" rim intead of the stock 7" and the wide rim will have to be offset so the extra inch is on the inside of the car. Hope this helps.

What size Engine?? 3.8L? 4.3L?, 5.0L?, 5.7L?, 5.0L 4BL?.
We need to know this to give you the correct information.
Also what else have you done already?

Its at the end of the fuel line in the carburetor, you have to unscrew the steel line that comes up to carburetor from the fuel pump.

this is caused by the nylon drive gear that operates the antenna being borken, u will need to remove the antenna and take it apart then replace the drive gear with a kit from GM, about $15.00 for the mast kit.

agree it should be connected to the block with 2 hoses connected to it

Have the battery load tested, probably needs new battery.

You need a donor vehicle, or a good junk yard. You will need an engine from a 95 up V6. You will need the complete engine, wiring harness, ECU, and harness. You will need the radiator and motor mounts, You should go ahead with the transmission swap also, being the 4 cyl.trans will be a bit weak for the v6. Look for the 3.4 v6 if you can find one. This swap from a Camaro is a good choice. The engines from the a Comaro are a bit beefier. What ever car you get your engine from, be sure to get as much wiring and all electronics as you can. Now if you do not have any Emissions problems where you live you will not need the ECU's or the wiring to go with them. You can run a carb engine and the swap will be a lot easier. You can get a manifold from Summit and a carb. and have plenty of power then. Good swapping.

You have a draw, not a short. Disconnect the positive battery cable, and put a 12v test light between the cable and pos. batt. post. Light will illuminate indicating power is being requested by a circuit. Start removing fuses one at a time until the light goes out. That will be the draw circuit. Check the items on that circuit for the one that isn't shutting off.

Diagram? just v belts. It should have 4...... ALT PS A/C and Air Pump.

Check the fuses.

the heater core is located under the dash board on the passenger side there is a few cap screws holding this black plastic box that hides the heater core loosen all the screws .take the plastic out of the way and u will see the heater core .there are two hoses to disconnect on the out side .under the hood on the passenger side .up near the fire wall .the re is a avaperation tank silver in color for the a/c under that there are two heater hoses to disconnect .when u remove the two hoses .they will leak antifreeze .bend the hoses over to kink them .tie some elec tape around them to keep them from leaking .go back in the car and loosen the four small screws that hold the heater core in place and remove .....in stall the new one the same way .taking care when putting the new one through the fire wall not to damage the brass tubing ...mount heater core first the place hoses on after the screws are holding the heater core in place then put plastic cover on start car and wait for thermostat to open .turn heater on hot .after water is circulating .refill radaitor ...job done...

a lot of gm vehicles use a single wire alternator the only way to tell is to either look at the back of the alternator or go to a parts store and look at a new alternator for you vehicle

Probably something to do with speedometer.follow the cable looking for an electrical connector on some kind of sending unit.

try bleeding from the master cylinder

sounds like the excited power my be falling off while in operation because that is all that controls it. if you have replaced the alt. and still have the issue you will be better of having that alt. turned into a self exciting alt. any rebuilder can but a self exciting feild in it. this is a very common practice. any alt. i have built this is how i get them done. then there no issues. good luck