20 Most Recent 1990 Dodge Grand Caravan Questions & Answers

Dam you need a EXORCISM! No just a loose connection in the dash. Sounds easy right! IF you are lucky it may be the main plug not seated into the dash board. Or a bad ire in that connector.

have the fault codes read first items that will cause what you describe are crank/ cam position sensor/s and wiring but that is a guess until the codes are read

Look in you owners manual are call a parts store they can tell you the correct degree for retiming.

hmmm... Have never heard of Dodge having a 429.. Ford made a 429, Dodge has the 440 and the 426 hemi.... unless they changed the bore and stroke for some models... which I think unlikely...


hold on... rereading your post... the only motors ever available in the caravan:

1984–1987 2.2 L K I4, 84 hp (63 kW)

1984–1987 2.6 L Mitsubishi G54B I4, 114 hp (85 kW)

1987½–1990 2.5 L K I4, 100 hp (75 kW)

1987½–1989 3.0 L Mitsubishi 6G72 V6, 136 hp (101 kW)

1989–1990 2.5 L Turbo I4150 horsepower (110 kW)

1990 3.0 L Mitsubishi 6G72 V6, 141 hp (105 kW)

1990 3.3 L EGA V6, 150 hp (110 kW)

if it happens to be a '91 they added the 3.8l

1991–1995 2.5 L K I4, 100 hp (70 kW) and 135 lb·ft (183 N·m)

1991–1995 3.0 L Mitsubishi 6G72 V6, 150 hp (112 kW) and 173 lb·ft (235 N·m)

1991–1995 3.3 L EGA V6, 162 hp (121 kW) and 194 lb·ft (263 N·m).

1994–1995 3.8 L EGH V6, 162 hp (121 kW) and 213 lb·ft (289 N·m).

Peace,

most likely for the ignition circuit. a new link must be soldered into place.determine the cause of the short or new link will blow as well.

Battery is not being charged by the alternator.

It probably isn't the alternator that is bad, but rather the voltage regulator, which by the way is in the computer behind the battery.

in the fuse box thats under the hood it should have the location of it on the cover of the fuse box.

vacuum line sounds like

You dont say what engine, but its most likely gotten from the bottom and back of the engine.

is right hand thread

If the driver's window doesn't work, but the other windows work, it wouldn't be a fues. Depending on how old the vehicle is the opening and shutting takes a toll on the harnesses. You might open the door and take you hand (while attempting to open the window) and jickle the wiring harness coming out of the door. If this works, you will need to take that harness apart and see which wire or wires are cracked. I would suggest soidering them rather than **** end connectors if this proves to be your problem. If not you will need to go into the door and test for power coming to the motor while engaging the switch...keep hands clear of all moving devices in door. Good luck.

It probably is wore in some areas. That is a little harder to see. I don't think it would be anything to worry about unless it is too excessive, then you might want to look around for another one at a junk yard that doen't have too much rock to it.

Check all ground associated with that wire. A good place to start is at the source that supplies that line. You may need to get a good diagram for the wiring so that you can look up the grounds that support this wire.

Most of the threads on this vehicle are right hand, but I am not sure what you are referring too; however, if you are referring to harmonic balancer...you in most cases will need a good impact air gun, or you could use an acetylene torch set and turn the bolt to an orange looking color, but you better have a water hose close and a safety shield over the front of your face since sometimes the oil wants to pressure out at you while taking the hot bolt off...oh did I mention, you will need to replace the seal and now would be a good time to see if the inside of the balancer has a grove where the seal rode. If the groove is able to catch your finger nail, you have two choices...put a speedy sleeve on that runs about $40 or try to place the new seal in such a way that it doesn't ride the groove area...by the way you will need a pulley to get that balancer off.

I would do a fuel pressure test to see if the pressure is at least 37 psi. If you can place your hand over the intake, the vaccum from the engine must be pulling the fuel in which the pump can't satisfy.

You do need a set of manifold gages to see if the compressor is pulling down; however, the H-block on the fire wall sounds like it might be a problem as well. You can take the back of a screw driver or a very small ball peen hammer and give this H-block a tap...don't hit very hard! If the air equality improves, but it still isn't running as cool as it need too, The H-block is some what of the problem, but the compressor may have seen it's better days. If you are successful with H-block part don't think right away that it needs replaced because most of the time the orifice is clogged due to parts and pieces moving around in the system. You can repeat this a few times and if it continues to clogged, you will need not only te evacuate the system, but have it thoroughly flushed by an experience mechanic.