Replaced the Crankshaft and camshaft sensors as a kit from Nissan. Cleared all codes (only code was P0335) and car was hard to start then flagged same code again along with P0725, Engine Speed signal. Not looking forward to pulling the connector on that crank sensor again. My hand is still raw. Any suggestions?
In the kit there are two sensor that look identical. The one for the crankshaft has a white paint mark on it near the bolt hole. Make sure that it is in the right location.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
car makes a scrapping and grinding noise when i drive and brake like i'm dragging something
Just by the information you put, I would say its your brakes. They are most likely worn out past the minimum wear (3mm). If its whenever you drive maybe you are dragging something? Your exhaust system supports may have failed, maybe something stuck in there and so you are dragging it along. Take a look underneath your car.
If the noise only happens when you brake then its gotta be a problem with your brakes. Sometimes rocks get stuck in between brake pads and rotors, this makes a very annoying squeeling sound until the rock comes loose and falls out. Another possibility, like I said earlier, is that your brake pads have worn out and is now metal on metal. I recommend you go to a shop and get your brakes checked. Brakes are a very important part of your vehicle, safety especially, so I don't recommend doing it yourself unless you know what you are doing.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
:)
Posted on May 08, 2009
Okay, when I turn my air conditioner on in my car, i can feel the compressor turning on, but after a few seconds it usually turns off. I checked my refrigerant levels, and they are good. The weird thing is that every once in a while the A/C will work just fine and blow ice cold air. Usually when the weather is not TOO hot though, which is no help to me. If i leave the A/C on while driving i can feel it kick on and off. Whats wrong with my A/C?
TRY THESE POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS? Start the engine and let it to run for a few minutes to allow the air to cool. Double check the controls to make sure the correct buttons are selected. This may seem simplistic, but human error could be to blame. Adjust the climate controls. If they are working correctly with the right amount of resistance and stopping at the right places but have no effect on the air then it is probably a simple fuse problem. If they are not working correctly then it is probably a control panel issue. Find the fuse box on the interior of the car. The fuse box is located under a small rectangular trim panel on the dashboard on the passenger side. Use a screwdriver or chisel that's end is covered with tape to avoid scratching the trim to pry off the panel. There is a fuse diagram on the inside of the cover. Get to the control panel in a Nissan Altima by removing the instrument panel, the kick plate and dash side finisher on the drivers side, two lower panel-to-instrument panel screws and the lower panel on the driver's side, two lower reinforcement panel-to-instrument panel screws and the lower reinforcement panel, six steering column cover screws, the covers, the spiral cable and combination switch, two cluster lid "A" screws and the cluster lid "A," and three combination meter screws. Disconnect the electrical harness connector and remove the combination meter. Best Of Luck
Remove the AC relay and in the relay socket, place a small jumper wire between pins 50 and 52 (check underneath the relay to identify the pins).
If the AC clutch fails to energize then it would mean that you have a problem with power, ground, thermal protector switch, or the magnetic clutch.
OR
your refrigerant should be full AT 100PSI but your compressor is not coming on, low side with compressor on should be around 30-39 psi, This could be many things. If it was blowing cold & then went off/on/off/on etc this means your fan was not coming on to remove the heat from your condenser, both the compressor and the fan work off of the high pressure switch, this could possibly be the cause of your trouble. You will want to get the system checked to see if all of the electrical components are operational before replacing parts.
OR
hot air blowing when the A/C was on. This was fixed by replacing the A/C Fan relay switch under the hood. Don't bother going to the dealer for one. They will give you a $20 switch for the wrong car, and when confronting them on it, they will say they made a mistake, and you will need to buy the entire relay switch box for $600. Go to a local junk yard and pull a switch from there it is either very cheap or free if you catch my drift. This should solve the problem.
or
Sometimes air conditioning problems in an automobile can be an easy fix, even for those of us who know nothing about cars. Before making a costly and time-consuming trip to the dealer or a mechanic, give troubleshooting the problem a shot. Take a few easy steps to try and determine the problem in your Nissan Altima.
Instructions
Posted on Sep 06, 2012
Nissan 2004 Altima fuel filter location and replacement ?
filter is inside of the fuel tank and its a part of the fuel pump assembly. you need to remove the bottom section of the rear seat via 2 clips at the bottom of th eseat.you need a special tool to remove the lock ring on the top of the fuel tank. you wil also need a new o-ring to close itback up. the whole pump assembly has to come out and disassembled to replace flter. good luck.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
I am an auto repair novice and wanted to know how to change the plugs in my '03 altima.
Not that simple on newer cars, but you do still need those tools.
Here is a good write-up: Changing Plugs on an Altima that will show you the location of the coil packs that must be removed first (9th picture from the bottom) and what they look like.
Doesn't really need to be done until about the 100,000 mile mark. Do not do it while the engine is hot or even warm. Replace with the factory recommended spark plug. Place a little anti-seize on the threads and some dielectric grease on the top. Be sure you torque them down to the proper setting. I believe it is somewhere around 20 ft. lbs., but if you call the Nissan service desk they should be able to tell you for sure.
Posted on Oct 07, 2008
how many thermostats does a nissan altima have and were and how
You have one and you can locate it by following the tope radiator hose to the engine. The housing that the hose is connected to the engine is called the thrmostate houseing and the thremostate is located in it.
Remove the hose and the two bolts holding the housing down to access the thermostate. Clean the two serfice before reinsatlling the new thermostate and replace the gaskit if needed.
Just dubble check with the procedures and any additional parts, at the parts store. Ther have all the how to do it your self for any repairs needed to be done.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
need the spark plug gap for 2.5 03 altima
2003 Nissan/Datsun Altima 2.5L SFI DOHC 4cyl
The Spark Plug Gap
.044 (In thousandths of an inch)
Posted on Jul 21, 2010
the power button for the up/down and adjustment lever for the seat back all work fine. this problem is out of the blue...was working fine this morning!
I was JUST working on a similar problem at work. It was a 2006 Altima SE with improper seat operation. It would ONLy go up/down on the bottom section of the seat. The recline and slide didnt work at all. It was looked at by different dealer and they couldn't fix it, so it end it up at my dealer ship. Since some of the features of the power seat are working, that means that you have power going to the switch. The switch provides ground for the whole circuit. The wires coming from the switch got chaffed and switch burned up. I installed new seat switch ($150 or so for the switch) and the whole seat bursted to life. I am pretty sure that you seat switch in NG.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
need firing order for 2003 nissan altima 2.5s
Hopes
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
Hey I have a 2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 S 4 cylinder engine and I have this situation where when I first start the car the rpms will idle at 2 or above but once it is warmed up, The rps drop to just slightly above zero and the car hesitates like it is trying to stall but then it goes back up to normal rpm range. The issue also occurs when you slow down and stop at a red light or at a stop sign but when you press the gas the rpm goes back up and the car is fine. I know it recently threw a check engine code saying it was misfire in cylinder 1, but we went to AAMCO and they told us to get a new battery and possibly a tune up. The check engine light was also reset too. They initially thought it was the coil pack in cylinder 1 so they swapped a coil pack from the other cylinders and it seems to drive fine at 30mph and above too. But it still has that hesitant movement whenever it is stopped at a red light or stop sign or if it is idling after it has been warmed up. I am thinking that it might be just time to replace the spark plugs but not sure if that will make a difference. Also I DO NOT get the check engine light when the car hesitates anymore and it has a brand new battery.
The battery was a red herring - it would not have anything to do with the problem.
Faulty spark plugs could cause a miss but probably not make the engine stall.
What you described is a classic example of a faulty idle air control valve or a dirty throttle body. The computer controls idle speed by regulating how much air enters the intake. It opens the control valve to raise idle speed when necessary.
I would check the control valve and the throttle body.
Posted on Sep 28, 2012
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