20 Most Recent 2004 BMW 3 Series - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Yes it makes a difference. You can never go wrong following the manufactures recommendations in your owner's manual. Saying that, I recommend every 5,000 miles if you use conventional oil and every 7,000 miles if you use synthetic and drive normally. If you drive mainly highway driving you can extend these 1,000 miles. Just as important is to change the filter at every oil change and to use a quality filter such as Purolator, Wix, AC/Delco, Motorcraft, or Bosch. Avoid cheap filters. Also important to a clean engine is to change the air filter every 30,000 miles.

Get a cd cleaner & clean it if it doesnt work,get a vacuume cleaner to vacuume where you put the disk.Cd changer maybe be dirty.

The car needs to go on a lift to have the back axle and suspension checked out. The BMW 3 series is rear wheel drive and it is possible that the sound you are hearing is a bad universal joint in the driveshaft or there is a problem with the rear diff.

Another thing to be aware of with the 3 series is that owners have reported problems with the rear subframe cracking and making noise like you describe.

However, given your experience with the noise happening at different times in relation to how drive is applied, the most likely cause is a problem in the drive train as I mentioned earlier.

Have the car examined as soon as possible on a lift as the longer you leave this the higher the risk of damage to other components.

It is hard to find squeeks, It could be bushings, struts, tierods, balljoints, even engine and transmission mounts. The worst one I found after five other people they said was in the dash. vynil was dry and most everytime you hit a bump it would squeek. I sprayed it down heavily with armorall and cured the squeek. Good luck
Randy

The ABS light on may be do to a loose connection on either the right or left ABS sensor which is located on the inside rocker panel on each wheel..The sterio may have speed control like mine.....The faster you go the sterio will increase in volume and lower when going slower cause of road noise or sun roof...Hope this helps you out.

This should help, works on most BMW 3 series

FUSE LINK SHOULD BE LOCATED AT THE BATTERY WIRE GOING TO ALTERNATOR.

Enter vehicle,make sure all doors,windows are shut
Use first key,switch ignition on and off
Remove key PRESS AND HOLD UNLOCK BUTTON
PRESS LOCK BUTTON 3 TIMES,RELEASE UNLOCK BUTTON
Central locking will activate
SECOND KEY, DO NOT INSERT IN IGNITION
Within 30 seconds press and hold unlock press lock 3 times release unlock button

this problem is caused by a defective door ajar switch, it is located inside the door on the door latch, to be sure which of the switches is causing the problem have the BMW dealer scan the body control central module, it can read which switch is defective.

on the bottom of the engine, at the big end, just before the gearbox.

1. Switch ignition OFF.
2. Press and hold button "A" - fig. 1 or fig. 2.
3. Turn ignition key to position "I".
4. After 5 seconds the words "OIL SERVICE" or "INSPECTION" are shown together with the message "reset" or "re".
5. Release button "A". Press and hold button "A". After a futher 5 seconds the message "reset" starts to flash.
6. Release button "A". Press and release button "A" again.
7. The new service interval is now displayed.
8. Press and release button "A". The message "END SIA" is now displayed.
8. Switch ignition OFF.

Fig.1


Fig.2

if it shakes when you are applying the brakes and not on acceleration then that would suggest warped rotors

fuel filter or air filter? Cabin filter? Fuel filter will be under drivers side door near drive axle on left side of engine. Or by gas tank.

prob the passenger occupancy seat sensor mat, common fault on the e46, happened to my 320ci o4 plate, around 200 pound to fix, but could go wrong again.

That depends on temperature, the lower when cold and upper when hot. Hope this helps, let me know.

Check the tracks and sliders or wheels to see if they are bent. You may be getting a jam somewhere. Check that all motors are getting power with a voltmeter.

It doesn't I'm afraid the Buttons on the steering wheel are no use!

The steering will have a few degrees of play, even when locked. Pull the wheel down(or up whicheer is easier) and turn the key.

The steering lock jams the key in there. If the wheel is turned to the left, turn it further to the left and turn the key.