2005 Dodge Caravan SE 2.4L Engine. Crank Shaft Sensor is located on the front of the engine (side toward the radiator) and right below the starter.
Raise the vehicle on stands or ramps. From under the vechcle, unclip the wire plug. Loosen and remove the 8mm bolt. Pull out old sensor.
This CAN be done WITHOUT removing the starter. Easiest way is to use a deep 8mm x 1/4” drive socket and good lighting. I had to use vise grips to grip and pul out the old sensor. It is okay to twist and pull.
NOTE: I have seen many posts placing this sensor in all kinds of places. For this vehicle, this is where it is located. If you have a different engine or year, it could be located someplace else.
Unplug connector to lock actuator and use meter to check for power and ground toggle as you use the door lock button. If you see power and ground toggle, then the problem is the actuator. Replace it/them. If no power/ground toggle, you've got a wiring problem in the traveling cable at the bottom of the door. VERY VERY common.
Your problem is almost never jumped timing. Won't start or even try to start with starter fluid? It probably lost spark (ignition). Do as boaauto says and check for spark on a plug wire. Look for a sharp blue spark. If none on that plug wire, try one more. Orange or intermittent spark is same problem as no spark. Loss of ignition spark could be due to bad coil, bad ignition coil control module (ICM), bad or missing crank position sensor, or a problem in the pcm (which is least likely possibility).
A cheap spark tester should be purchased for spark testing- that way you stand no chance of getting an electrical shock when testing.
Replace the temperature sending unit/sensor. This sensor tells the computer to put the engine into cold start mode and it then sets idle a bit higher and puts a bit more fuel into the engine to keep it running without having to touch the throttle. Once it's warm, sensor tells computer to go to normal run mode and it's done. No problem.
If the fuse blows right as soon as it is pushed in , you have a dead short to ground . Just from reading your post , i gather you have no clue about automotive electrical systems an circuit's . I have thrity years experience diagnosing automotive electrical problem's ! It is my professional opinion that you should take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop , one that specializes in automotive electrical system's repair . To fix this could mean taking part's of your vehicle apart to access wire harnesses , suppose the problem was behind the instrument panel an it had to come out to get at the harness ? Need special tool's , wiring diagrams , harness routing information , not to mention knowledge. Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? How to use it to pin point locations in a electrical circuit for testing ? Know what a DMM - digital multi-meter is ,an how to use it ?
Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size. Under system click on HVAC ,then under subsystem click on HVAC controls . Then click the search button , then click the first blue link . This is a diagram of the front blower electrical circuit . I believe this is a seperate problem from the blown fuse problem . This could just be a relay or resistor or the blower motor is bad . Try your hand at this first , buy a cheap multimeter an test the B+ voltage through the circuit , from the relay to the fuse , to the blower motor ,an so on . Watch these video's
Belt idler pully or tensioner pully maybe . Pull the serpentine belt off an see if the noise goes away . Just running the engine for a second or two you should be able to tell , an this will not hurt anything .