Your problem is almost never jumped timing. Won't start or even try to start with starter fluid? It probably lost spark (ignition). Do as boaauto says and check for spark on a plug wire. Look for a sharp blue spark. If none on that plug wire, try one more. Orange or intermittent spark is same problem as no spark. Loss of ignition spark could be due to bad coil, bad ignition coil control module (ICM), bad or missing crank position sensor, or a problem in the pcm (which is least likely possibility).
A cheap spark tester should be purchased for spark testing- that way you stand no chance of getting an electrical shock when testing.
Replace the temperature sending unit/sensor. This sensor tells the computer to put the engine into cold start mode and it then sets idle a bit higher and puts a bit more fuel into the engine to keep it running without having to touch the throttle. Once it's warm, sensor tells computer to go to normal run mode and it's done. No problem.
If the fuse blows right as soon as it is pushed in , you have a dead short to ground . Just from reading your post , i gather you have no clue about automotive electrical systems an circuit's . I have thrity years experience diagnosing automotive electrical problem's ! It is my professional opinion that you should take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop , one that specializes in automotive electrical system's repair . To fix this could mean taking part's of your vehicle apart to access wire harnesses , suppose the problem was behind the instrument panel an it had to come out to get at the harness ? Need special tool's , wiring diagrams , harness routing information , not to mention knowledge. Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? How to use it to pin point locations in a electrical circuit for testing ? Know what a DMM - digital multi-meter is ,an how to use it ?
Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size. Under system click on HVAC ,then under subsystem click on HVAC controls . Then click the search button , then click the first blue link . This is a diagram of the front blower electrical circuit . I believe this is a seperate problem from the blown fuse problem . This could just be a relay or resistor or the blower motor is bad . Try your hand at this first , buy a cheap multimeter an test the B+ voltage through the circuit , from the relay to the fuse , to the blower motor ,an so on . Watch these video's
Belt idler pully or tensioner pully maybe . Pull the serpentine belt off an see if the noise goes away . Just running the engine for a second or two you should be able to tell , an this will not hurt anything .
More information would be needed if the check engine light displayed more codes after the EGR was replaced . Just because the code shows up does not always mean that is the part that failed. Looks like there is more to the issue here . you might even have a fuel filter or pump problem if your losing power at speed. . I would take it to your local auto parts store and have them read what codes are stored in the van.
P406 is a EGR code, EGR will also cause a knocking/ pinging sound when there bad. Very common problem. The position sensor inside the valve goes bad. Your going to have to replace the whole EGR valve and it can put out variety of codes from P0401 to P0406. The new valve will solve the problem and easy to replace, you can pick one up at Auto Zone and they can give you the step by step instructions to replacing the EGR with common tools. Good luck and hope this helps.