1994 Peugeot 306 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Most auto parts retailers can order these in for you if you give them you vehicle details to get the correct ones. You can also get them online or by going to a Dealership and paying their silly prices.

Get all info at www.reliable-store.com and get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc

My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs. I know this website www.reliable-store.com that i used to buy them from, and they sold online it was very good manual. Go ahead, I bet.

If it only stalls when you stop check the hose to the brake booster. They can crack and leak or it could be the booster itself.

If it's the original knob then you have to remove the gaiter housing (the leather thing around the stick for novices) as the knob extends to under the gaiter and no amount of pulling will remove it without doing this first. It's easy to remove just by lifting from the long edges first and it slips out. The gaiter is secured into the middle of the bottom of the knob by a zippy tie that you have to cut. You can then just pull the whole knob up with a little bit of force but it slips up revealing a white plastic shaft

What country are you in?

its 75w/80 and about 2lts. Fill to side level plug

Disconnect the battery negative for 5 minutes and retry. Make sure to drive it for awhile before doing anything else.

Yes, But only if you opened up the closed system by replacing a thermostat, sensor or hoses. If not more than likely a thermostat unless it is running rough. Then maybe internal engine damage.

Hi Steve Connect a 30 Amp fuse onto Battery + (Safety) Clip a long wire onto the other side of the Fuse. Run this out to the Rear Window Motor wire. See if the Motor runs freely without jamming or blowing the fuse. So... the Motor will be Good or Bad?? Use a 12v test light. Connect one end to Chassis Ground. Use the sharp pin end to check your wire back to fuse. Or Start at Fuse. This should help narrow down where th fault is Good Luck

are you talking about you tach gauge , maybe because it is not working right , if you push the accelarator does it go up and down ,if not it needs replaced or just do not worry about it not nessary anyhow unless you are racing it and want to watch the tach so you do not redline it which is uaslly around 6 thousand and up , depending on a number of factors

It's normally a rubber ring that comes with the thermostat, follow the water hose in the front of the engine it should take you to the plastic housing with three bolts holding it on

you still have air in the system

problably the anker goes not direct back in its housing. so he does more turn then he can handle.when you turn the ignition, a gear in the starter comes forwart and turn the flywheel.when the, fly wheel runs higher then the gear off the starter it flips back in its , housing.some times this dont happen and makes a specific sound. replace the starter.

have the OBD code read as sounds like a sensor/wiring fault this would speed up the diagnosis as would need to inspected the entire braking system might just need the crown ring cleaning on one of the axles

First thing to check has the alternator drive belt broken (fan Belt). If the belt is OK, then the alternator has a fault, generally it is not charging and the battery will go flat. Connect a volt meter across the battery, run engine, you should have a reading of 13.5 volts at 2000 rpm, lower than 12,8 volts and that's the fault.

THE HEATER CONTROL CABLE, VALVE, OR SOLENOID IS STUCK OPEN......LETTING COOLANT INTO HEATER CORE AT ALL TIMESFIND BAD COMPONENT-REPAIR

Easist way to solve that problem is ,go get enouther harness for it from a auto wrecker from the same kind of car, Then the wires will all match up, Just reconnect one buy one at a time,

I would have used the lock mechanism from old tailgate. has it been deadlocked?

Sounds like rod bearings, but may be piston slap. Add some motor honey to oil to thickn it up and see if that helps.