2004 Kia Sorento EX - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity and toss in a load of CAPS. Question moved to model category. In the engine block, right rear rib when viewed from the front. https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2004-kia-sorento-nned-find-location-engine-number-2004-need-registration ..

have you had tyre balance checked? have you a leaking / failed front shock?

Have you checked the oil level? It might be low on oil and or due for a service

Hi,the coolent is most probberly comeing from the exspansion tank,it could be a week filler cap or a blown head gasket,you should get a garage to check for leaks,they will compress the water system to find this out,if you rother do it yourself you could go to a motor spares shop and tell them you want to pressurise the water system and they should sale you the right tool(its a gage with a pump on it and it should come with all the instruction you will need,good luck hope its something trival.

Worn out belt. Burr on a pulkey, misaligned pulley.

Do you have a module for coils?could be a bad wire on # 5.

Check for B+ voltage at the power outlets with volt meter . Go to http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams ! Go on youtube watch videos on basic electrical trouble shooting , how to use a DVOM digital volt ohm meter , how to read a wiring diagram ,voltage drop testing ! Then test the circuit for power an grounds . http://www.autoshop101.com/ go here to lean about different type electrical circuits. Series , parallel an series parallel !

if it is a 4 cylinder then 3 cylinders not firing will contribute to it being difficult to start if it is a 6 cylinder then it will start and run successfully on 3 cylinders as that is a method used to load an engine when setting emissions after installing LPG gas on a car however 3 faulty injectors and low fuel pressure will stop a car from starting and I feel that the is the area you should be looking at after you run the fault codes

I'm sorry but there isn't a line going from your alternator to your brake Master cylinder. The brake fluid is in a contained sealed loop and it is used for hydraulic pressure, it does not flow out of the master cylinder and lube the alternator bearing. Yes your brake light could be on because it's low on fluid, if your alternator is squealing, it could be because of a bad bearing but, I'd look at the serpentine belt tensioner first, it could be weak, I'd also look at the condition of the serpentine belt itself. If the belt has never been changed that means it's 12 years old and probably worn and cracked.

the abs unit light is on because it reports a fault that fault could be a broken wire at one of the wheels not being totally conversant with the road conditions where you are , it is possible that a wire to a sensor has been broken off from a rock, stick or the like and only needs replacing The ABS unit is a small metal block with around 6 or more steel brake pipes attached to it replacing it is that last thing I would do as they are very expensive and may still leave the light on as it may be a faulty sensor at a wheel there are a large number of scan tools available on e-bay with prices that range from $ 50.00 - to $500.00 usd that will read the OBD-11 codes in your vehicle so if your dealer is too miserable to get one for his customers to use , then there is nothing to stop you from buying one yourself the cost will be considerably less than a new ABS unit and you will have it to read all the fault codes for the vehicle and to reset the ECM to put out the fault light

Likely the relay that controls the fan is "stuck". That's likely in the fuse box. Open the fuse box, and pull the relays. If the fan stops, you've got the right one. Tap it, and it should release. You may end up replacing the relay, they're not expensive.

hope you get this diagram if not go to autozone library when you open the hood go to middle of the front of engine it should be very close to the crankshaft it self

Code po443 is for EVAP purge solenoid malfunction which will cause the car to stall. Also over filling gas also causes the EVAP canister to choke with excess gas. Please perform the following test the component failure:- Tests/Procedures: 1. Monitor the purge solenoid for having 12v Key On Engine Running (KOER). 2. Using a voltmeter attached to the White wire, monitor for 12v to come and go. 3. Check the purge solenoid for clicking at idle. Tech Tips: If the voltage is alternating from 12-0 volts, that indicates that the ECM is trying to trigger the solenoid. If there is no clicking, the solenoid is faulty.

starter is worn out replace it youtube it too see how it,s done

After changing the coolant, the engine will need to be ran to open the thermostat to get trapped air out of the system. The heater will get hot after this is accomplished. May even take a couple of tries to get all of the air out but, be sure NOT to let the engine overheat.

You'll have to jack up the front of the car, or safer yet, park the car facing up a large hill, and run the car with the overflow cap off while shaking it back and forth. It will take 5-10 minutes but you will get a lot of air out, after this add coolant and drive around, you heater should work better. This may have to be done multiple times to completely purge the system of air.

Oil sending unit is bad, or the bearings are bad. Replace the sending unit first.

you are best getting the hoses you need first then you will see where they are routed , the clips that are used in the factory when vehicle are built use a special pliers , you will need to cut these off and replace with screw type hose clips , just follow where the hose's go and you can't go wrong , obviously drain the cooling system first

Dealer only to re-programme the remote ,sorry its not a thing you can do yourself

check the switch first and then the fuse