20 Most Recent 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe Questions & Answers


Nonsense. I just programmed a new remote start fob on my 2011 Santa Fee limited and it worked just great. Follow the steps below and see what happens.
1. Open the drivers side door
2. Turn the Vehicle ignition to the ON position (Do not start the vehicle)
3. Locate the disarm/program button. (look closely, it is located on the wiring harness just inside the lower dash. it could be located just inside the fuse cover.)
4. Press and hold the disarm/programming button for 10 to 15 sewconds, the horm will beep 3 times. Release the disarm/programming button.
5. On the fob, press the Find/Panic button One time and the horn will beep one time.
6. Turn off vehicle ignition. (YOUR DONE)

2011 Hyundai... | Answered on Jan 12, 2019


Generally on the santa fe it is located just behind the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer (the pully lowest in the engine compartment driven by the drive belt).

2011 Hyundai... | Answered on Feb 14, 2017


I have never seen a single post on this issue, but here is what you must do, the system will have set a fault code in the computer memory of the control module, you must have it scanned to obtain the fault code and then do the needed diagnostics to repair it.

2011 Hyundai... | Answered on Nov 26, 2016


You need to join the hyundai owners forum its free and they will help you more .

2011 Hyundai... | Answered on Sep 27, 2016


Put your key back in your pocket! Don't run the engine ! https://www.mynrma.com.au/blog/2015/03/27/wrong-fuel-woes-how-to-save-on-unwanted-repair-costs/
http://www.motorama.com.au/blog/servicing-tips/how-to-fix-petrol-diesel#.V-Yq_fl97IU
http://www.autofuelfix.com/blog/petrol-in-a-diesel-car-guide-and-videos
Call a mobile car repair service to advise you on emptying car as it can be an ******* to drain the fuel out as where do you get rid of the fuel

2011 Hyundai... | Answered on Sep 24, 2016


1. As a basic measure I would make sure the correct grade and spec oil is going in the engine. You can no longer trust that a local mechanic or even a dealer service center will necessarily use the required product as stipulated by the manufacturer. It is always better to buy and supply your own so you know the correct product is being used.

2. I would not assume there is a problem with the oil pressure warning light even though there could be.
The first thing the mechanic should have done when you reported the oil pressure issue is to hook up an independent mechanical oil pressure gauge and check oil pressure when the engine is hot at different RPMs. Any oil pressure issue will usually show up at idle when the engine has been warmed up properly and the engine oil is hot (unless you have some kind of intermittent oil pressure relief valve that is sticking). Just replacing parts without actually knowing what the oil pressures are at different RPMs is being sloppy and negligent.
This is what you need to do now. Contact a business that can hook up their own pressure gauge to your engine and have them check the oil pressure readings at various RPMs when the engine is fully warm. If there is a low oil pressure issue it will show up on the oil pressure gauge. As you have a new oil pump there should be no issue now with oil volume or a sticking oil pressure relief valve which on your engine should be part of the oil pump assembly.

3. Worn engines will not be able to sustain required oil pressures. Oil pressure is not produced by the oil pump. The oil pump produces oil flow but the resistance to flow is what produces the oil pressure and that resistance is created by fine clearances between operating engine parts especially on the crankshaft and components connected to it. Once the engine wears the clearances increase and the oil flows past the parts much more easily and produces/builds much less pressure.
How well your engine with over 90000 miles has been maintained depends on how often all the owners changed the engine oil and filter , whether they kept the engine oil level up to full (most owners rarely ever check oil levels between services) and whether they always used the correct product. Manufacturer oil change intervals shown in service schedules can be 10000, 12000 miles or more which is much too infrequent for the type of use 95% of private vehicles experience which typically are on the severe to very severe use end of the spectrum. Engine oil typically needs to be changed at least at half the mileage shown in service books (at least twice as frequently) and thus at least every 5000 miles if you want your engine to last.

2011 Hyundai... | Answered on Feb 25, 2016


on side of engine block to start the crank

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2011 Hyundai... | Answered on Jan 02, 2016


You will just have to pull it up and hope it doesn't break the door. The latch is already broken. Both are made of plastic.

2011 Hyundai... | Answered on Mar 07, 2015


What kind of four cylinder and what make and model of vechile

2011 Hyundai... | Answered on Mar 04, 2015

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