20 Most Recent 2007 Honda Odyssey EX Questions & Answers

check fuses and vaccuum lines

Yes.

Check upper and lower tracks for any thing that could stop or slow it down. It has a safety that will stop the door if something is in the way. with your finger, put a very thin layer of grease on the upper and lower tracks.

you said pulley, do you mean the cam cog belt wheel? and how do you know that? a stethoscope at ears? my guess???? (damage has no limits on machines) 1; it is loose.... 2: the timing belt is loose, (never changed at 60k-90k per FSM) if the belt slips, you can kiss off a good engine. bent valves or far worse. (no limits) 3: the new belt drifts running and hits the cover. ask how and why , i have a 6 point list for that. seen them all. the honda engine is INTERFERENCE CLASS. the piston chases the exhaust valve closed, (max power and efficiency , is why) and if the belt slips. the piston can hit the valve and bend them all. with possible wrecked pistons, or worse, bent rods. cracked valve guides (wrecked head) and pounded to death rod bearings. ask any engine builder for photos , we have many,, ask.

cant follow that. at all , sorry.i dont need a good listwhat i need is symptoms and test facts.so fuse good to me means 12v on both sides of the fuse. (nothing else)1: so, the list. heater fan on high works, always, does it?2; The clutch is dead, great test, its #2 all the time. 3: then you check the voltage at the Hi/low switch.12v good, 0v on one side bad. the switch kills the Clutch on purpose to save the compressor from destriction.so of the switch opens, the clutch is cut. that means only 2 things.low pressure or insane too high (overfilled)or the switch is defective.use a AC fill kit and watch the pressure, if the pressure is goodand the switch opens, the switch is bad,if the pressure is bad, (not spec) then get that corrected.

which one?there are many.security alarmkey left inseat belts.head lamps left on.and more.

Check fluid level worse case gears aren't sincrenizing properly tranny shop can tell u that when they check fluid level but sounds like tranny going out or your clutch if has one I'd say clutch first before tranny gears if manual tranny if auto then fluid or tranny needs serviced

the output speed sensor is not at fault; check the fluid level in the transmission. If that won't help, the transmission is bad.

Generally speaking, it is rare for both bulbs to go at the same time, but they do! "Most" turn signal bulbs have two elements. Remove the bulb, (push in a bit, about a quarter turn and pull out) if there is two contacts on the bottom it is a multi bulb. You can generally see both of the elements in the bulb, and see if one is burned out. The short reason for this explanation is, you've said the signals are working! and "checking" the bulbs is the first "cheap" step. It also serves another purpose, you "playing" with them can help make them make "contact" if they were not seated correctly or if the contacts were dirty. If the bulbs look good, your signals should be a "bright light", and pressing the brake pedal, should make the same "bright light, and ... the four way flashers should make the same bright light! If you do not get the "bright light" or worse you get "uneven" light or "If" they don't flash, the next "in expensive fix" is to check the "flasher", the thing that makes the clicking sound when you use the turn signal or 4 ways. If all that is working, next turn on you park headlights. Do you get a "not so" bright light? You "should" at all the little lights around the car. If the light is backwards, bright instead of dim, there is a wiring problem and probably a short! If you don't then we start looking for fuses! And they can be anywhere in these new cars! The most usual spots are in front of the drivers seat up under the dash, below the steering column. Sometimes, up under on the passenger side. Sometime, under the front hood, one one or both sides, or all these places! My Toyota has four spots to look! The Smart car, up under the passenger side, waaay up under the passenger side! And then depending on the manufacturer, it can be one of several "types" of fuses. Generally speaking, a "good " ones you can see a flat wire through a "window" that connect between the two connectors. If the wire is melted or gone, it's a bad fuse! (With the most prevalent type they do not have to be removed to see them, at "fuse" tester comes in real handy, it has two prongs that touch inside two small holes on the top of the fuse to see if it has continuity, makes it really easy to check them all within minutes.) When replacing , get another of the same size (wattage) and replace, buy extra! If it "blows" again immediately, you have a more expensive issue, you most likely have a "short" which can be very difficult (and expensive) to find! Do not be tempted to just put a larger wattage fuse in, that can make the repair incredibly expensive! Good luck!

Check for Pinched wiring in rear door hatch.Wiring harness runs in door hatch & open/closing of door ALWAYS PINCHES HARNESS!!!!!!

if you hear grinding noise while driving, it usually comes from your brake or tires touches fender liner, if noise remains constantly, may be from a pulley bearing. For your case, check front tires, turn it right and left to the max, check if it touches anything; if not, check the brake, a nearly worn pad will expose its metal part, it will contact the rotor and makes noise.

possible lazer pick up dirty or damaged can try a different disc first --try cleaning unit