You didn't describe the nature of the 'noise' which is probably why you haven't received a prior reply.
If it is missing, it might be injector problems but the injectors themselves are not loud enough to be heard over the other engine noise.
Spark plugs, ignition wiring, fuel filters cannot 'make noise.' Any of those can cause the car to run rough but not cause any specific noise unless it is related to the engine misfiring and in that case, it wouldn't just be a source of noise but also inadequate acceleration and a prominent jerking of the car at low RPMs.
Carbon buildup is the likely cause although causing any engine to lug (drive in a higher gear at low speeds) can damage bearings in the engine, creating excessive bearing play and a knocking noise under some conditions.
Also, a failed exhaust manifold gasket or associated pipes being cracked can really cause a racket.
Without us hearing the noise, it's kind of hard to diagnose it, but the above might give you some guidance.
Shift interlock system problem . Not the cable . Your vehicle has a safety system that won't allow the gear selector to be moved from park without the brake pedal pushed . Lock solenoid keeps gear selector from moving . Trying to force it will break something . Do you know how to test electrical circuits with a volt meter ? Here is a web site for free wiring diagrams http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Enter the vehicle info. Year , make , model and engine size. Under system click on transmission / transaxle , then under subsystem click on shift interlock . Click the search button then the blue link. Park neutral switch , brake switch and the shift interlock solenoid , check electrical circuits .
Fuel pressure regulator diaphragm may have split. Remove the cover plate on the throttle body and inspect the diaphagm for damage. See part 2 at link below. The tbi pics are around the middle of the page. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair
Are you sure you got the dustributor in the right tooth? Check timing using procedure at link below. Or, maybe you got a bad rebuilt. Here are some tests to check it out:
See Figures 6 and 7
Check for spark at each spark plug with a spark tester. Check at least 2 plug wires.
If spark is only detected at some plugs, check for a faulty distributor cap or rotor. Also check the spark plugs and plug wires. Replace, if necessary.
Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 185-275 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 370-550 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 240-325 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 475-650 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
Measure the air gap between the signal rotor and the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. If the air gap is not 0.008-0.016 inch (0.2-0.4 mm), replace the distributor housing.
First check fuel pressure. No pressure--is the pump running? If not, check fuse and relay or try applying power directly to the pump connector. Note: the blue wire with black stripe at injectors also powers fuel pump.
If pressure is good, check for ac voltage at injector connectors while cranking. If no ac voltage, pcm may be bad.
1994 Geo Car Stereo Wiring Schematic
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: White/Black
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Yellow
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Red/Green
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/Blue
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Red
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green/Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Black
Better check out the motor. It may be damaged from the overheating to the extent that only popping the clutch will generate the torque to turn over and start the engine since the starter cannot overcome the new engine resistance.
And if that is the case any other remedy(ies) are not practical. Only if you can start it with your starter should you consider checking out the radiator, water pump, hoses, and every other part responsible for cooling the engine.
Some solutions to this question I have found are astonishing. Its quite possible you have a short in one of your ground wires, or your battery needs replacing/cleaning. Sometimes is a faulty coil pack. Lol, I know this sounds really weird but its true. Or to the more specific area of insight, Your rev count is low, honestly this is a bit hard to troubleshoot. Why not, lets give this a try. How low is your RPM (Revolutions per minute) on normal running conditions? ex: 1000rpm, 500rpm, etc... If your vehicle doesn't have a RPM gauge then this will be very hard to pinpoint. Does it sound like the car is going to die while in a stop (No lights or any ACC on) just normal driving? If your car is sounding like its going to die while normal running conditions, Your IACV could be going out or its just dirty/clogged with some gunk. Here is a video on how to clean your IACV and throttle body injector. How To Fix Car That Idles Poorly