Special socket for 6 slotted nut on right side crankshaft.
Need to remove the 6 slotted nut on right side of engine crankshaft. Trying to remove side case to gain access to the water pump on a 1999 Polaris 400 xplorer. (leaking thru pump weep hole) Where can I get this special 6 slotted deep socket? Thanks
this is the tool you need for this cheapest i found, 48$ is the highest so far i need it too just today i was looking for it, and found it i also need the counter balance puller as well to overhaul my case completely if you want to replace the bearing in the case i can get them cheap too post back.
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Spark time is fixed and controlled by the crank trigger. There is only two things that can change spark timing. a twisted crank ( very rare ) a sheared flywheel key (Also very rare)
Valve timing, remove the timing inspection plug and the the pull start housing, you will use the nut on the crankshaft under the pull start to turn the crank to bring the timing mark TDC-COMPRESSION STROKE - into the timing inspection hole. remove the spark plug so your not fighting engine compression to turn the motor.
Now remove the the valve cover and check the alignment line on the cam. the alignment line should be level with the top of the edges of the cylinder. if not you have a problem
Secrets of Starter Motor and Drive Replacement for 1999 Polaris Scrambler 400 4 X 4
1. Yes you must access both sides of the starter to remove it. Remove clutch covers on left side of machine and covers and pull starter cover on right side of machine.
2. There are two bolts on the clutch pulley side and two bolts under the pull start cover that must be removed to free the starter/starter drive. The starter and drive must be removed and installed from the left (clutch pulley) side together. That's different than the 500.
3. You only need to remove the positive lead from the battery and starter motor post. The starter is grounded by being bolted to frame.
4. The starter is at the bottom of the motor, not like the 500 at all which is accessed through the air box. You can find it by removing the plastic skid plate on the bottom of the engine. You can prop up two wheels on the left side so the machine is 45 degrees tipped up onto both right wheels. Make sure the fuel and oil caps are screwed in tight.
5. It is difficult, but you can remove the two bolts on the left side without removing the actual drive and driven clutches. The clutch cover must be removed though.
6. Under the pull start cover on the right side you can remove the two bolts holding the starter in. One of them is about 4" long and goes through the actual starter motor. It's tough to remove without bending because your u joint partially blocks it.
7. Now you can wiggle the starter and drive out from the left side through the slot in the frame.
8. Decision before you start: How much do I pay for parts? The range is from $50 - $150. Is the expensive part better? This is a difficult repair. Can I really do it myself? If not, what am I willing to pay for labor? I did it for $50, but if it goes out again I will try to find someone who will do the labor for $150 or less. I might go for the more expensive parts if the cheaper ones don't hold out.
You will need a special tool from Kawasaki for the clutch tool removal to remove the belt and to install the new belt. Stop by your local dealer for the tool and they can explain the pretty simple way to remove the side panel and use of the tool. the tool runs about 76.00 Hope this helps you out some.
MOVE EACH CYLINDER TO TOP DEAD CENTER OF COMPRESSION STROKE ( sorry caps on .) check that timing mark in timing cover hole is in line .remove adj cover per cylinder in alignment and adj valves according to mfg specs. to adj : under adj cover , loosen lock nut on top then loosen adj nut on btm @ top of valves . insert feeler gauge under rocker and adj ,this is tricky to say the least. usually takes several tries to get it right, keep trying the valves must be set right or major expenses can be expected to occur. intake and exhaust settings are different normally at least .005 .be sure to tighten locknut on top before checking if clearance is correct. holding the btm nut while turning the locking nut is the tricky part 4 me anyway. 2 valves per cyl. on most atv eng. adj all valves .start eng and listen to eng w/o reving up. any ticking noise and you get to start over. should be smooth idling and quiet. no popping or backfiring. smooth starting and off w/o run on. should not be performed unless you are familiar with the procedure. contact me or service center near you if not sure on procedure.correct adj. is slightly snug fit . valves making no noise when done .
Have the valves checked. The will after time come out of adjustment. It is something you can do yourself in a clean area. On the front of the engine there is what looks like a big bolt head ( 1 on top and 1 on bottom of motor on head). Remove them both, and by manually turning the engine over( spark plug removed) put the piston on top dead center(TDC). Watch the lifters as you turn the motor over to see witch lifter is closed/open. The closed lifter(lifter will be down when closed). On the lifter there is a small lock nut. loosen the nut so you can turn the adjustment screw. Turn the screw in till it touches the spring cap. You should be able to slightly move the rocker side to side but not up and down. This is a good way to adjust the valves without a feeler gauge. Hope this helps.