Question about Polaris ATV

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Polaris sportsman 90 stoped running on the trail will not start carb needed a new bowl vent was blocked bowl was cracked at drain screw i found a new carb for it and it still does not start! after turning it over for about 5 seconds gass starts spiting out of the intake of the carb! its doing the same thing the old carb did i have spark not sure if its good enough or not( yellowish and blueish)any suggestions?thanks!

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  • dave haapoja Sep 10, 2009

    i replaced the spark plug and the fuel filter and im getting good gas delivery to the carb it does have an auto choke and doesnt seem to be working i checked the voltage to it and when i was turning it over i had about .3 volts also when turning it over i held the gas full open and i got smoke to come out but it still did not want to start i also noticed that when turning it over that when i gave it gas it sounded like it would turn over faster than with out giving it gas! any suggestions? i may have to bring it in to a mech. i think im running out of options!

  • dave haapoja Sep 10, 2009

    the color of the tip of the plug was black! the old filter had a metal disk that was loose in it ! drained gas from the bowl and looks good i had drained the gas tank and carb and put fresh gas in it (bought yesterday ) i also drained the gear oil and it was grey probably has nothing to do with my problem but i know that it is bad it seems like it has good comp. but i should have it checked to be sure.

  • dave haapoja Sep 10, 2009

    also the new plug that i put in had oil on it after turning it over and giving it gas and after puting it back in and getting it to fire alittle the plug stayed dry also at the safty switch i have the same voltage as the plunger/starter

  • dave haapoja Sep 10, 2009

    compression is 40 is that normal ? seems low!

  • dave haapoja Sep 10, 2009

    i just pulled the top end off and the rings are shotthe piston is scored and a little transfer on the cylinder walls ! thanks for your help!



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The carb has to be rebuilt probably, but at the very least, it needs the float to be adjusted. It is pretty easy to do. If you are only going to adjust the float, get a new gasket. They may have instructions, and a little ruler, to adjust the float. If not, it should be in the rebuild kit.Take it off the engine. Empty gas into gas can. Turn upside down. Take off screws from bottom (bowl). The bulb type thingy, is the float. Where it rotates from, there should be a pin that should slide right out. Take this off, and the float should come off too. Look under where the pin was, there is a small needle valve, take it out, and by the way, set all your parts on a towel or a tray to keep from loosing them. Using a Q tip, wrapped in a paper towel (so you dont leave a little string of qtip cloth or whatever behind), wipe out where the needle valve came out of. Wipe the needle valve, and put it back in. Put the float on, and adjust it. Put gasket on, and bowl, tighten each screw so it just touches the bowl. Then tighen 2 opposite corners a little more, then the other 2 corner screws, then the first 2, then the last 2. You don't want them REAL tight, but they need a little torque on them. I think you have 2 carbs, so you can at least try one.
Spark should be okay.

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

That there is spark (even if not as strong) is significant, the ignition would then be the least likely cause of the problem.

Though the carb would be the visible indicator of the fault, it must also be considered why even the new carb is exhibiting the same problem. A common denominator then would have to be added to the equation, the fuel delivery and storage; i.e. the fuel tank, fuel cutoff valve (petcock), filter, fuel line. All must then be checked and cleaned.

Your description "...gass starts spiting out of the intake..." would lead us to primarily suspect that the float activated cutoff valve is not sealing the fuel inlet port allowing flooding.

Suggested course of action:

  • clean the carbs (again if necessary), fuel tank and all fuel delivery related components;
  • ensure jets are not clogged, floats works and adjusted correctly;
  • use a can of compressed air to flush the jets, vents, ports and openings;
  • be wary of the small flat washers/spacers, springs and O-rings;
  • soak non-rubber components in carb cleaner;
  • drain, flush and spray with compressed air the fuel tank. Replace with fresh fuel;
  • spray compressed air though the sparkplug hole to force air dry the combustion chamber while dry starting (no fuel in carb);
  • depending on the carb installed, verify action of choke or auto-choke;
  • inspect fuel in bowl, note quantity and quality. Note possible presence of sand, rust or sediments.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Sep 10, 2009

    Appreciate your postback and additional information:

    • replaced the spark plug - how is the color of the tip;

    • fuel filter - what was wrong with the old filter;

    • good gas delivery to the carb - verify that it is getting inside; loosen the drain screw to confirm presence, quality and quantity of fuel in bowl;

    • auto choke... 0.3 volts - should be 12 volts

    • gas full open and i got smoke to come out - then it is igniting (firing). A likely air/fuel mix issue; is the plug wet with fuel or dry;

    • turning it over that when i gave it gas it sounded like it would turn over faster - this is because the butterfly is open hence the engine is not having a difficult time drawing air (intake).

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Sep 10, 2009

    Remove air filter box. Spray ether (starting fluid) while starting the Polaris. Alternately, cover the carb air intake side temporarily with the palm of your hand while starting. Determine if it will be wet with fuel.

    Additionally, have the compression check.

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Sep 11, 2009

    40 is very low, depending on condition should beat least 100 +. Unfortunately, looks like top end work required.



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