It is leaking more from the top of the motor and there is oil getting in the air filter box. How can this be?
The engine in a 2004 JD Buck should be a Rotax 650, which is a 2 cylinder 4 stroke water cooled engine generating 62 hp. With that said, the most likely cause of oil in the air filter and leakage from the top of the motor is excess pressure in the crankcase. A cracked block is a possibility, but the most likely culprit is worn piston rings. A compression test should help narrow it down, but in either case you are looking at a complete tear-down of the engine.
https://www.rotax.com/en/products/rotax-powertrains/details/rotax-650.html
SOURCE: lawn tractor shuts off after 20 minutes of running
How old is your ? Sounds like ignition problem,If your engine is older you would have points when the points are bad they can stick together and will result in shutdown after unit cools a little it will restart !
SOURCE: I have a 1968?? 2020 john deere. The hydraulic
make shure none of your hydrolic cylenders are extended and fill it up till you can stick you finger in there and it barley touches if you do this when cylenders are extended you will over fill it.
SOURCE: John Deere Gx75, kawasaki 9hp motor- oil in carb!
A very common problem with the GX series with Kawasaki engines. The carburetor 'inlet needle' sticks open and fills the crankcase with fuel. When checking the oil, it can be difficult to see the gasoline and the level appears to be OK. Remove the dipstick and smell the oil, you may detect a gasoline smell. Also, drain the oil, and you may find much more fluid than you expect.
The solution on newer mowers was to install an 'in-line' shut-off valve to keep the fuel from syphoning into the carburetor. The inlet needle and seat in the carburetor is NOT replaceable, so a new carburetor is the ultimate solution, but VERY expensive. Installing and using an in-line shut-off valve is more affordable.
Also, this situation is common when machine is transported on a trailer, as the bouncing causes the needle/seat to leak. When transporting, always turn off the fuel supply to the carburetor.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae
SOURCE: We have a John Deere lawn mower model JS45. Just
this problem is related to the auto-snesing carburator. If you wrap the throttle cable, that runs down the left side of the mower, around the handle several times and tie wrap in place the mower will run. I had the same issue with mine. the manual is vague at best when it describes how to fix. After you wrap the cable around the handle, it will tighten the cable and the mower will run.
JV
SOURCE: John Deere will not start.
If you have gas running down to the carberator ( take the fuel line off and make sure there is gas running to it or there may be a screen or filter plugged by the tank or on the way to the carb) if there is gas there the problem lies in the carb itself. If you have some mechanical ability you should be all right as it is not rocket science. If you are comfortable with taking the carb apart the first thing i would check is the needle vavle. With the carb apart you will see a big brass looking thing this is the float, right above that is the neddle valve, that is the first place they seem to stick on me. Move the float up and down if the neddle above it doesn't move or sticks there is your problem. Spray it with carb cleaner and see if it moves freely. You may have to dismantle the carb to get it to work freely. If it won't buy a carb kit and install all the new gaskets needle valves and jets ( this is a very good ideal any how) Also make sure any little ports in the carb are open ( in the bottom of the carb there may be tiny little holes that are plugged) find a very small wire to clean them with and also make sure when you are done you can spray carb cleaner thru them. This is why they have a small straw on the can with it ( watch your eyes and wear safety glasses as you never know where it will spray out from) That stuff will dry your skin out fast so don't get it in your eyes and you may want to wear rubber gloves. Also be very careful when putting back together as there are little pieces that like to slide around and fall out or may get bent even worse you don't want them in your motor. Also try to count every screw you turn as these are jets and you will want to put them back to the place they were set at cause it's a pain to get them set right by adjusting them later. Do not force anything putting it back as you may bend the jets or float and you will have to take it apart again and replace them as well. Take your time and be patient and you will be just fine
Testimonial: "thanks...you gave me encouragement to give it a try. I took off the shroud, air cleaner box and couldn't take off the carb as there are no heads on the four bolts that hold it on. Looks like it was designed not to be removed? I took off an inspection plate on top of the carb and cleaned all of the channels and ports within with carb cleaner and compressed air...still no gas flowing thru carb...unless I force with compressed air. Any other thoughts? It is a twin cylinder OHV B/S. Thank you. "
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