2005 polaris 700 efi cant hear fuel pump when key is turned on, wont turn over either

If you used a test light to make sure you have no 12 volts to the fuse you have to check the relays near the battery,. The only other spot you can check is the switch it self for 12 volts.. Good luck.

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
10. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
Good luck and have a wonderful day.

If you look at the picture - 29, 30 & 31 are the starter relay, main fuse and probably the bolt that holds it to the frame. When that fuse blows or that relay goes out - it's over. Not going to start. If you have a standard test light - attach the clip end to ground (frame of atv) and then put touch the postivie post of the battery to verify that the light is functional. It will light up if the battery is good. Next -follow the red cable to the starter relay in the diagram. Where it attaches - check for power. With the key off. IT should be live without the key in. It's on standby in a way. If you do not have power at the other end of your positive cable - your cable is shot. If you do - then you will have someone turn the key and check to see if power is coming from the other post off the relay (that would go to the starter and make it engage - if the square standard fuse in that relay is not blown - but power is not coming through when you touch the key - it's probably the relay. Your safety switch among other things can prevent the engine from starting as well - along with loose cables and grounds (always do a thorough check of all wire connections and grounds - one loose ground can mean a nightmare sometimes) - if you give that a try and do not identify the culprit - just comment or reach out and I'll take you through the next steps. All The Best, Justin Lee, 17 South Industries, LLC


Here's a copy with 29, 30 & 31 Link will take you to page as well*


2003 Yamaha GRIZZLY 660 YFM660FR Parts


Your starter relay -


4SV 81940 12 00

Hi, Kim and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Faulty fuel pump fuse or relay.
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.hondaforeman.com/128-foreman-450/82769-starter-problem-i-think.html
http://www.hondaforeman.com/146-honda-rancher-350-400-420/81917-2007-420-cranks-but-won-t-fire.html
Rincon 680 service manual repair 2006 2016 TRX680 Download Manuals... $ 5
http://owners.honda.com/assets/OWNERLINK/model/own_man/powersports/2007/2007_TRX680FA_FGA.pdf Free

These machines depend on a good ground. Make sure your ground connections are all clean and tight.... especially the ground wire from the battery to the frame. I recommend removing the battery terminal wires and cleaning the terminals... Also the negative cable that bolts to the frame... remove the bolt and sand the terminal that bolts to the frame. Check for in-line fuses... There is one in-line fuse near the battery!

check key switch for voltage coming in and out of it with a test light .if you have voltage in and out. go to fuse block check it should have 4 fuses check contacts . disconnect battery clean them with small flat driver .commen problem .with all fuses out. key on, test contact for power atleast 3 should have power one should have power when starter button is applied make sure all contacts are making contact to posts on fuses.

I think you have a dirty connection somewhere between the battery and the starter solenoid. Or... between the battery and the frame ground. Or - possibly - one of your battery cables is destroyed.

Don't keep trying to charge it or jump-start it if the battery is fully charged - you're wasting time doing that. Track down the battery cables and find the problem. Use a test light or a meter to follow the wiring - when you find where the voltage stops, you've found the problem.

Where did you ground the winch motor? You need a separate, heavy duty, switch with a relay to transfer the positive side voltage properly... DO NOT ground to the battery..use a clean, free of paint, place to ground. You may have fried the solenoid..do not connect the positive side to the solenoid. Direct connection to the + battery from the relay is good with a good waterproof fuse in line. Sometimes I have seen the "maint. free" batteries die when used "wrong" and still show 13 volts+.

Hi Lee,

The starter requires substantially more current (amps) than the little wires and contacts that make up the start button and starter circuit. These small wires power a solenoid (an electro-magnetic switch) when the start button is pressed; which in turn closes a much larger contact that connects the larger battery wires to the starter motor.

You may have a blown fuse or fusible link, bad starter switch button, bad solenoid, broken wire(s) between the starter button and solenoid, poor connections at any of the terminals on these devices or a bad starter motor. Check the these circuits with a volt meter capable of testing 12 VDC or using a test lamp. Start with the one probe of the meter or lamp connected to a good ground or (-) post of the battery. The other probe should see 12 V (+) power on ONE of the starter button wires and on BOTH when the button is pressed. If not, work your way back to a bad connection or cut wire. Next, locate the solenoid. There should be two heavy cables and one or two smaller wires entering. The smaller wire is from the start button. Power 12V + should be on it when the button is pressed. If there are two smaller wires, one is probably ground or (-). If no power, check the wire for damage, etc. by following the wire back to the starter button. Once you have 12 V + starter circuit working into the solenoid, go to the next step.

Next, check the two heavy cables on the solenoid. One should have 12 V + power on it all the time and the other should have power only when the starter button is pressed. If you do not have power on one of the cables all the time, there is a bad connection,etc. between the solenoid and the + battery post. Check fuses, connections, etc. and make repairs. With power on one cable, press the start button A working 12 V starter circuit is required for this to work. If no power on the other heavy cable, the solenoid should probably be replaced. If you do have power out, it it still won't crank - check the cable between the starter and solenoid. Repair or replace as needed. If cable is good, the problem is likely to be the starter itself.

Good luck!

This repair should go pretty well. Start by load testing the battery. If the battery is old has some cell damage, then it would appear to be charged until it was put under a load. If the battery is fine, move onto both battery cables. Inspect both cables, from end to end. If anywhere on either cable the connection is loose, corroded, or frayed, it will fail to start. Then at last is the starter. unless you know how to bench test the starter. Please remove it and have it bench tested. This should just about cover popular failures. If you still have a no start issue then you either overlooked something or there is a defect in the wiring to the ignition switch circuit or the ignition switch itself. You can inspect the backside of the ignition switch and look for loose or over heater terminals. Good luck.