My speedometer is reading more milage then it should. I clocked it with 2 other machines and it reads.6 more than both machines

I don't know about your atv - most car and truck starters move into mesh before receiving full power but many bike type starters use a roller clutch in a drive that is a permanent chain drive.

I strongly advise you obtain the appropriate service literature for your machine before you start to unbolt anything.

If you have the front wheel off recently one, the speedometer sensor is easily broken and a common occurrence when the wheel is removed and replaced.
The symptoms are erratic or non-working speedo.
Also, there is a wiring harness under the speedometer. Remove the 3 bolts holding on the speedometer, and carefully lift it up and check to make sure the harness is plugged together tightly.

change oil every 6 months
if in constant use , every 3 months

Tony, sounds like a transfer case issue, have machine checked or scanned for error codes.
Check the attached links,Manuals and guides, Good luck with your Bike
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

ATV TROUBLESHOOTING AND MAINTENANCE
How to Diagnose Motorcycle Electrical Problems Dennis Kirk Inc
Service Manuals for Download in PDF

that sounds like your clock you must of lost 12 volt connection at some point engine codes dont go that high

CPU Unit may be faulty, will not give you true readings .

Hi Peter.

Most all speedometers are connected to your transmission by a large-gauge cable that connects to the transmission wall and to the back of your instrument cluster. It has a cable inside that is coupled to the final gear ratio (wheel RPM) and spins with it. The spinning at the other end, turns a magnet that will affect how the speedometer needle rises against a spring. (If it's a digital read-out, never mind, it'll all be data cables and an RPM sensor somewhere). Most likely the cable is broken or detached. Less likely but possible, the gauge itself is broken. They don't tend to be high wear, though all bets are off on an ATV. Look for the cable. make sure it's seated snugly on both ends, and consider replacing it if nothing else works.

Good Luck
D

Question: Wildcat Dealers, Pin Numbers, and Cut Outs. - ArcticChat ...

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Just a suggestion but you should consider soldering all your electrical connections to insure they are weather and vibration proof. Additionally, I added a small 3 amp circuit breaker, but a 1.5 to 2 Amp automotive fuse and fuse holder will do nicely.

Process:

1- Disassemble the 'Instrument/Light' cluster cover.

2- Remove the 'Radiator access' panel.

>>>Perform This Test BEFORE Proceeding and make SURE all power is OFF!<<<

3-On the drivers LEFT side of the radiator access area, locate two (2) connectors, each with SOLID GREY wires and BROWN wires with a WHITE Stripe on top and smaller diameter Solid Grey and Brown wires with a White stripe leading down.
--a) Disconnect both connectors by pulling the top and bottom sections away from each other. (DO NOT pull the WIRES, use the connector body to pull).
--b) Test EACH of the two (2) connectors with the SMALL DIAMETER wires leading down. (see Hub Coil Connectors pix)
--c) Using an OHM meter, measure the resistance across the two pins (one connector at a time) for each connector. Depending on the accuracy and sensitivity of the meter, each connector should read between 25 and 28 OHMS. NOTE: If EITHER of the two (2) Hub Coils reads ZERO (0) or less than 25 or Greater than 28 OHMS STOP!!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective or in need of repair!
--d) Using an OHM meter, on EACH of the two connectors, measure the resistance between one pin of each connector and GROUND (any bare metal point on the ATV frame). NOTE: If EITHER of the two (2) connectors resistance to GROUND reads anything GREATER/ABOVE than ZERO ( 0 ) OHMS STOP!!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective or in need of repair!

>>>If the test in 'c)' or 'd)' FAIL STOP, DO NOT proceed!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective and MUST be repaired before ANYTHING else is done!<<<

4-(For my model) On the right handlebar, check the lamp in the AWD switch to make sure it is not burned out or missing. Replace lamp if necessary. (Not essential to the AWD operation, just nice to have to confirm voltage is being applied to the front wheel Hub Coils)

5-In the 'Radiator Access' area, locate the Red/White stripe wires providing (switched) full time + (battery plus) voltage (accessory power) via a ¼" female connector. "Accessory Leads" - in the wiring diagram.

6-Using a volt meter (or continuity light), CONFIRM that the terminal is OFF (NO voltage) when the ignition switch and the 'Engine STOP/START switch (on the left handlebar) are both OFF, and has + (positive) battery voltage, when the ignition switch and 'Engine STOP/START switch are both ON, with the engine NOT running.

The Display screen on your Speedometer should indicate if you are in P , N , L or H .It should also indicate if you are in 2 or 4WD