Awd wont work

Hi,

Your clutch would usually be the issue. But your ATV has automatic clutch so we can disregard that.. I will get that you need to alter your final drive (ie check 2wd, awd etcc).

The problem could also be belt related, so you might want to check the status of the belt. If you need more help, you can also call Polaris at 1 (800) 765-274.

Thank you.

check the fluid in your hubs

First off be careful because you will be working under your vehicle.
Check your linkages, fittings, bolts (that none are missing), and splines.
Obtain a new gasket and gear oil then drain and remove the inspection cover (s). Check that the gears, splines, bushings, bearings, etc. are good and intact.
Check oil sump areas for fragments or broken parts.
My guess something inside the transfer case has snapped but you never know could be something that came loose.

2004 Sportsman 700 AWD not working..... - Polaris ATV Forum

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Feb 18, 2013 - Go Back · Polaris ATV Forum > Polaris ATV Technical Discussions > ATV ... AWD wont engage. 2. The instrument / speedo works. 3. The AWD switch is ...Polaris ATV Junkie! .... four wheel drive not working polaris sportsman. Won't go into 4 wheel drive
Feb 1, 2013
4 wheel drive not working
Nov 13, 2011
2004 700, 4WD engages by itself
Oct 28, 2011
4wd is stuck on
Dec 3, 2009
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check for faulty safety micro switches on the machine
(seat ,brake ,clutch gear position -neutral etc)

Just a suggestion but you should consider soldering all your electrical connections to insure they are weather and vibration proof. Additionally, I added a small 3 amp circuit breaker, but a 1.5 to 2 Amp automotive fuse and fuse holder will do nicely.

Process:

1- Disassemble the 'Instrument/Light' cluster cover.

2- Remove the 'Radiator access' panel.

>>>Perform This Test BEFORE Proceeding and make SURE all power is OFF!<<<

3-On the drivers LEFT side of the radiator access area, locate two (2) connectors, each with SOLID GREY wires and BROWN wires with a WHITE Stripe on top and smaller diameter Solid Grey and Brown wires with a White stripe leading down.
--a) Disconnect both connectors by pulling the top and bottom sections away from each other. (DO NOT pull the WIRES, use the connector body to pull).
--b) Test EACH of the two (2) connectors with the SMALL DIAMETER wires leading down. (see Hub Coil Connectors pix)
--c) Using an OHM meter, measure the resistance across the two pins (one connector at a time) for each connector. Depending on the accuracy and sensitivity of the meter, each connector should read between 25 and 28 OHMS. NOTE: If EITHER of the two (2) Hub Coils reads ZERO (0) or less than 25 or Greater than 28 OHMS STOP!!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective or in need of repair!
--d) Using an OHM meter, on EACH of the two connectors, measure the resistance between one pin of each connector and GROUND (any bare metal point on the ATV frame). NOTE: If EITHER of the two (2) connectors resistance to GROUND reads anything GREATER/ABOVE than ZERO ( 0 ) OHMS STOP!!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective or in need of repair!

>>>If the test in 'c)' or 'd)' FAIL STOP, DO NOT proceed!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective and MUST be repaired before ANYTHING else is done!<<<

4-(For my model) On the right handlebar, check the lamp in the AWD switch to make sure it is not burned out or missing. Replace lamp if necessary. (Not essential to the AWD operation, just nice to have to confirm voltage is being applied to the front wheel Hub Coils)

5-In the 'Radiator Access' area, locate the Red/White stripe wires providing (switched) full time + (battery plus) voltage (accessory power) via a ¼" female connector. "Accessory Leads" - in the wiring diagram.

6-Using a volt meter (or continuity light), CONFIRM that the terminal is OFF (NO voltage) when the ignition switch and the 'Engine STOP/START switch (on the left handlebar) are both OFF, and has + (positive) battery voltage, when the ignition switch and 'Engine STOP/START switch are both ON, with the engine NOT running.

Sounds like your clutch is slipping. There is an adjustment on the front of the engine for this. Look for a 14mm nut with a flatblade screw in the center of it. Loosen the lock nut while holding the adjuster screw. Hold the nut and turn the screw in the "decrease" direction (marked on the case above the screw) until resistance is felt. Turn the screw back the other way 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut while holding the screw in this position. If this does not fix your symptom the damage has been done and internal clutch component replacement will be necessary.

Is the front end clear of mud? they sometimes get jammed up like that. Is it electronic or by Vaccuum?

It be the both cases of one of them. You should take it to a mechanic.

theres a little green wire that goes to the clutch cut it and ground it out and it will go in to gear i had the same problem