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Hey Carl, Have you checked to see if the piston is sticking in the caliper or have you tried to bleed the system a little?
Try the system bleeding first... shouldn't take much if you have air in the line..(This is the same for the front or rear brakes.)
If you have been riding in mud, dirt, water, (I know-that's where we all ride!)..sometimes the piston (The brake caliper piston - NOT the engine piston) will get a tiny bit of corrosion around it and start sticking..this will cause the brakes to seem if they are on constantly.. IF your progress to diagnose this gets this far.. it is a fix for someone with some experience and knowledge. It requires removal and disassembly of the calipers, cleaning of the caliper, replacing the caliper o-ring, wet sanding the O.D. of the piston with brake fluid and 1200 grit sand paper, then a thorough cleaning of the caliper piston. Then reassembling all these cleaned (and the piston/o-ring lubed with brake fluid). installed back on the atv, ..ALL the brake system fluid should have been replaced and now the system bled completely. If you have more questions, reply to me.
Does your model use hydraulic brakes? Many models don't. Check your manual and if you don't have one, go to the mfr's web site and download one. Otherwise, try it out. If the brakes seem to be working fine... why fix it, if it ain't broke! If the brakes, don't feel right, then you will have to bleed hydraulic lines and slowly top up with the proper viscosity and thermal property brake fluid. If there are problems getting brake pad pressure after filling the master cylinder and bleeding the brakes, the master cylinder will need replacing.
Look at the shift linkages. If they are loose and out of alignment it will sometimes cause that condition. The linkages where the go into the transmission is a common spot where the splines will get slop in them.