Question about Yamaha 2006 Wolverine 450 4x4
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If your jetting is too rich it will be extremely hard to kick start it and will most likely flood it from kicking.First thing i would do is pull the top of the carbs off (cable,slides and needles) and see which clip they're set at. If they are set stock which would be middle clip then lower the needle one clip. This will lean the mix out and should start up easier with no problems,The idle issue is most likely just off.If your fiance still has the TORS on it then on top of the carbs he will see 2 dime size and screws and wires as soon as he takes his seat off.While running he can turn each dime size screw in or out to adjust the idle. If it has a TORS elimator kit on it then he won't have all the junk on top of the carbs and it will be just a cable and round cap screwed directly on top of the carbs and the idle screws will be on the side of each carb (brass color screws with nuts to tighten) same thing...in or out to adjust the idle where needed.Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
it is possible that th eplugs might be fouled but it seems unlikely after only two weeks running-my fzr would foul plugs but it usually takes months not weeks-also the engine would start but run on2 or 3 cyls. I found using one heat range hotter than standard plugs helped,esp. around town you seem to have been fairly methodical on your troubleshooting-if you have fuel and spark the next thing to check is comp. -if the plugs are wet it is likely fuel not oil-when I first bought mine it had sat over winter and would not start -it turned out that the valve clearances had closed up enough that it was low on comp. when ridden frequently it was ok but as soon as the oil had drained off the cyl walls it would not start-squirting oil in the cyls. would get it started but I pulled the cams and set valves to solve problem-starts ok now but I don't use the choke-you could lift the cover and check your valve clearances -it would be a good idea on a bike that you just bought-don't give up -be methodical and check one thing at a time-when you get it going it will be worht it
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
Take the carburetor apart again, remove the main and idle jets and idle mix screw, plus the float and needle valve. The main jet holds an 'emulsion tube' in--look inside where the slide valve moves, you should see a short brass tube projecting out of the bottom. Carefully push down on that tube with a plastic rod or wooden dowel, it should drop out the hole where the main jet was. Chances are that the tube is dirty and needs to be cleaned--look carefully at the series of small holes drilled into the sides of the tube. These small holes deliver air which is mixed into the fuel passed through the main jet. That air comes from a small hole just inside the intake side of the carburetor. The long needle that sticks out of the slide bottom controls low to mid-range speed fuel-mixture. Check that the 'C' clip on the top end of the needle is in the center groove and that the retainer spring is pressed down the 'C' clip. Now soak the whole carburetor with spray cleaner, then blow out all passages with compressed air. Don't soak the rubber-tipped needle valve from under the float. On reassembly, set the idle mix screw 1-1/2 to 2 turns CCW from CW stop. Adjust for best idle after you get it running and warmed up. I hope this long winded explanation helps!
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
I had the same problem - actually more than one problem:
1) Floats in the carburetor bowl (at the bottom of the carb) are getting stuck. Remove the carb; carefully disassemble the bowl & float assembly (pay attention to gasket orientation and don't lose the needle valve that the float-tab presses on!); use a carb cleaner from AutoZone or similar, and a toothbrush to clean all the parts. If carb is not too dirty, leave the jets and mixture-adjust screws alone (otherwise will have to re-adjust later).
2) Overflow tube is plugged (hence fuel in the cylinder instead of on the ground). Clean both ends of the brass-looking tube from inside and outside the carb bowl. Make sure you can blow through it or it is still plugged. Toothbrush and carb cleaner should do the trick. Replace the short flexible tubing that connects to the overflow on the outside of the bowl - transparent polyurethane tubing is less than $1 per foot at your local ATV/motorcycle shop.
3) Air Vent tube is plugged. Same thing as the Overflow tube but mounted higher up in the carb (not in the bowl). Clean it the same way and replace the flex tubing with another short piece of polyurethane.
4) Make sure the float-tab and needle-valve move smoothly. Mine was catching and getting stuck so I carefully "polished" the face of the tab with 400-grit emery paper, and then made sure to clean the area from grit. Smooth as a hot knife through butter now.
5) Set the float level by CAREFULLY bending the tab that pushes on the needle valve. On my 1981 175MX, float height spec is 21mm when just making contact with the needle. Yours may be different though.
6) Reassemble the carb after making sure all dirt and debris are gone. Use a new bowl gasket or at least put a good gasket-sealer compound on the old gasket. Attach the short lengths of transparent polyurethane tubing to the Overflow and Air Vent. When installing the carb, the Air Vent tube should just be 2" long and point out to the side; the Overflow tube should route through the frame near the swing-arm and point down to the ground.
7) MAKE SURE the Oil Feed tube coming from the AutoLube oil pump is connected to the carb (brass-looking fitting toward the cylinder-end). I replaced mine with transparent polyurethane tubing (different size than the Air Vent and Overflow), so now I can see that oil is being presented to the carb!
8) If the carb was nasty-dirty, you may need a new air filter. Mine was disintegrating. I recommend also putting an in-line fuel filter between the petcock and the carb, again using short lengths of TRANSPARENT polyurethane tubing (so you can see that fuel is flowing). You may also need to adjust & prime the AutoLube oil pump.
I highly recommend getting a Clymer manual (check eBay) which shows all these procedures and gives you the right specs for float height, etc. based on your model / year.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
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